This homeowner contacted us to help him make his home more comfortable and energy efficient year round.  Our Building Science Expert did a comprehensive evaluation of his home to determine why his rooms on the second floor were very uncomfortable and inconsistent with rooms on the first floor.

Generally, Cape Cod construction homes are the most inefficient homes due to the amount of unconditioned spaces on the second floor.  Unconditioned spaces are considered outside spaces as they are not heated or cooled.  

During the evaluation, the Building Science Expert noticed the knee walls or crawl spaces adjacent to the bedrooms and bathrooms on the second floor were insulated with a minimum amount of fiberglass insulation.  Wind Washing was evident on this inferior insulation.  Wind Washing is evidence of air flow through the stack effect.  Dirt was noticed around all the edges of the fiberglass insulation which was acting as a filter, not a convective insulation.

We installed our Super Kneewall with SilverGlo to the knee walls and crawl spaces.  A kneewall is the triangular space under the sloped roof and behind the wall of the room.  Our SilverGlo is expanded polystryene foam insulation with graphite infused in the foam.  This increases the R-value as compared to regular EPS foam.  

The attic triangle in a Cape Cod construction is a very tight space. In order for us to effectively treat this space, we dense packed with TruSoft Cellulose insulation from the ridge of the roof.  Dense packing is used when air sealing for convection loss is not possible.  We remove the ridge cap and access the attic and the slope of the attic from the roof line on the exterior of the home.  We blow insulation into the attic framing cavities fully packing the voids.  Using this treatment allows for hysteresis.  Hysteresis is vapor escaping through the top of the house for ventilation.

Additionally, in the basement of this home, the significant amount of humidity entering the house through the rim joist was causing mold spores to grow by raising the relative humidity above 70%.  Because the concrete foundation is a porous material, temperature differences between the top of the foundation and the bottom of the foundation causes condensation in the summer.  

By air sealing the entire rim joist with our closed cell spray foam, we stopped the humid air from entering the home in the summer and the cold dry air from entering the home in the winter.  This will keep the basement more comfortable and effectively more energy efficient.

This homeowner was able to notice a significant difference in the comfort of his home immediately.  He will realize lower heating and cooling costs and his home will be more energy efficient.

These home owners in Windsor, CT Had called us to their home because they could not keep the living space at a comfortable temperature. When our building science specialist got to the home, he realized that this home had a couple of problems that were making this home hard to heat.

The biggest problem was the attic. It was severely under insulated and had no air sealing. To solve this, first thing we did was remove all of the old nasty insulation. Then, we air sealed the entire attic making sure we got every penetration through the drywall, every top plate, and every end plate. After we did that, we installed a catwalk going the length of the attic to give the homeowners a little bit of storage space and a place for them to walk if they ever had to go up there. The final thing to do was to blow our Trusoft cellulose insulation to an R-value of R-60. This is the recommended amount of insulation the department of energy says all home in New England should have. 

The next area of the home was the basement. We spray foamed the rim joist so that no cold air could get into the house from this location. Doing this and properly insulating the attic, will help tremendously with making this home a more comfortable space for these home owners and their kids to live. 

The last thing we did was dense pack the floor above the garage. Both of the bedrooms that they used are above the garage and they were always freezing cold in the winter and super hot in the summer. To fix this, we dense packed every single bay. Making sure to get all the way down the bays so there is no area cold air can get into the living space. 

Once we completed these treatments, this home is now so much more comfortable and energy efficient!

This homeowner in West Suffield, CT called us to schedule a Free Home Energy Evaluation to help them get to the bottom of why their home was so cold and drafty. The Building Science Specialist conducted the evaluation and noticed they had old, ineffective fiberglass insulation in their attic, as well as no air sealing. Their basement had little to no insulation and no air sealing as well. This will cause a cold and drafty home because nothing is stopping the harsh outdoor air from entering into the home at a drastic rate. We proposed to remove all of the old insulation in the attic, air seal, and insulate with foam blown-in cellulose insulation. This will stop air from entering or exiting the home from the attic. Next, we recommended removing the old traces of insulation in the basement, and insulating the rim joist with our spray foam! This will stop the flow of cold air into the home from the basement. By moving forward with these specialize treatments, this homeowner could enjoy a more comfortable home and a lower energy cost!!

This homeowner came to us about issues with moisture in their stone foundation crawlspace which led into the basement. Vented stone crawlspaces allow moisture to get in and condense on everything from the floor joist to the ducts, allowing wood to rot and pests to thrive. If left unchecked, mold that forms as a result of this elevated moisture can work its way up into the home, putting you and your loved ones at risk for health complications. These vents also allow cold air to get into the crawlspace and move up through to the floor in rooms above the crawlspace, making your home harder to heat in those spots.

We started off with sealing the vents and other leaks to the outside to stop more moisture and cold air from making its way in.The walls are covered with our Foamax advanced polyisocyanurate foam insulation panels to insulate the basement and keep the cold out for good. A dimpled drainage matting is installed across the floor to create an airspace and thermal break. TerraBlock floor insulation is installed over that matting and finally, a vapor barrier liner is installed permanently over the dirt floor. This treatment was paired with our SaniDry basement air system to keep this home free of excess moisture with ease.

Thanks to Dr. Energy Saver by Eco Energy Solutions, this homeowner will no longer have to worry about moisture, pests, or cold floors in their home!

This homeowner in Avon, CT found us online and told us that he was having issues with heat escaping. One big culprit in this case was actually a chimney! Building code requires that no combustible materials be within 2 inches of a chimney, so there is often an airspace from the basement up to the attic surrounding them. This can cause a major loss of heat in the winter.

With this chimney there was some debris around it that we cleaned up first. Then a metal flashing is installed and sealed with a high heat fire caulk to block cold air from moving up. Finally we wrap the chimney with rock wool. Rock wool is completely fireproof, making it totally safe and up to fire code

Thanks to Dr. Energy Saver by Eco Energy Solutions, there is no longer space around the chimney for warm air to escape and it is now safe to blow cellulose into the attic space around it.

This homeowner in West Granby, MA called us out to help them understand why their air conditioning was not cooling their whole home. They mentioned to our Appointment Center that they had a small amount of insulation in the home but knew it was not efficient. We sent out our building science specialist to take a look at the home and get to the bottom of their concern- staying cool! 

During our evaluation, we ask the homeowner some questions about hot weather, cold weather and the comfort they feel inside their home temperature-wise. After we ask questions we can do our walkthrough. We walk through the home with this homeowner and take a look at the attic, basement, crawlspace, and the rest of the home. We saw that they did have little to no insulation in their attic and that they had a damp, dirt crawlspace that was negatively affecting the home. We knew for one we needed to use our crawlspace encapsulation system to keep out moisture and stop another access point of air they were paying to heat, or in this case, cool their homes to escape. We also proposed to them to remove all of their inefficient fiberglass insulation and air seal/insulate with our patented products. This would drastically decrease their concern about the air conditioner not cooling their home by stopping airflow from leaking in or out of the home! Next step, installing the work!

This Homeowner called Dr. Energy Saver because her basement was damp, moldy and drafty and she believed her existing basement windows were to blame.

Problem:

The windows in the basement area of this older (1950's) home were old, weathered and inefficient and were in dire need of replacement.

Dr. Energy Saver Solution:

Our Building Science Specialist evaluated the basement windows at the customer's request and confirmed that the windows in question were, in fact, old and inefficient. The windows had never been repaired or replaced. The Building Science Specialist carefully assessed the basement windows and made the determination that the best replacement would be the Everlast™ Basement Windows. 6 each Everlast™ Basement Window Inserts and 6 each SunHouse™ Basement Window Enclosures to help protect from the elements.

Whether your project is small in scale, or a full blown whole house comfort solution, Dr. Energy Saver by Eco Energy Solutions is eager and ready to help!

Problem: This homeowner called us with a list of suspected concerns from attic insulation to R value in walls, to leaky and damp basement, etc... and the list goes on. This is a PERFECT reason we have Certified Building Specialists to assess and give solutions to any concerns you may have.

Solution: Upon evaluation by our Certified Building Specialist, he found that the whole home was in need of an Energy Efficiency overhaul. To alleviate the problems with inefficient heating/cooling in the home, the solution was to insulate the exterior walls with Premium ProWool™ Insulation. This home was also in need of a Total Roof Replacement using our Klaus Roofing System. The basement issue could be solved by using Closed Cell Spray Foam to insulate and air seal the Rim Joist around the perimeter of the basement.

Like that...a mystery is solved and an end to the problem is on the horizon. Dr. Energy Saver by Eco Energy Solutions. We Fix Uncomfortable Homes! 

Problem:

This homeowner called our company because she heard we were the best and that no job was too small. This particular homeowner had a converted barn that she was renting to tenants and the storm door of the unit was damaged and needed to be replaced.

Solution:

Our Building Science Specialist was able to quite easily inspect the damage to the storm door on the front entrance of the rental unit and determine the best replacement due to specifications and usage of the door. The solution was the removal of the damaged door and installation of a Premium, High Performance Exterior Storm Door which was completed without a hitch.

Dr. Energy Saver was able to take this homeowners problem, which many contractors consider "too small" and easily come up with a solution and a fix because we know that any problem is one too many. Especially for a landlord. The tenant can now use the space as intended.

Problem:

This homeowner called us for a pretty specific reason. They were experiencing inconsistent heating/cooling in some areas of the home. The room that was giving them the most problems was the Finished Room Over their Garage, which we refer to as the "F.R.O.G." here at Dr. Energy Saver by Eco Energy Solutions.

Solution:

Garages are not heated, but the finished rooms above them are. When the garage ceiling is only insulated with fiberglass insulation, as this home was, it is not efficient. Fiberglass insulation is soft and fluffy allowing a great deal of air to travel through, making it inefficient with a decreased R-Value. This results in too cold, or too hot, drafty floors upstairs which was the root of this homeowners problem. We removed all of the existing fiberglass batt insulation and prepped for installation of fresh, clean and efficient insulation. We then removed siding and drilled holes in the rim joist and dense packed TruSoft™ Cellulose Insulation into the floor of the room above the garage. This allows for more comfortable rooms and lower heating and air conditioning bills.

Problem:

This homeowner called us looking to have a virtual evaluation of his basement done and due to his particular circumstances, we were happy to oblige. He was having issues with his basement being too cold and also had critters getting in.

Solution:

Our Building Science Specialist was able to quote this job virtually given all the proper dimensions, etc... This problem could be solved rather easily by air sealing and insulating the rim joist around the perimeter of the basement with closed cell insulation. Voila! Just like that! A warmer basement is created, money is saved on energy bills and critters have no way to get in now! 

A local homeowner in Windsor reached out to us about their attic not being well insulated. There was pink insulation foam loosely scattered around the attic not even covering the corners. This is not doing anything for the home owner and the homeowner is suffering to keep energy in the home. 

Solution: 

The Dr. Energy saver solution is to rip out all the old useless insulation, Apply Moldx2 cleaner and MoldX2 Botanical. Then install a super platform with SilverGlo and sprayed the attic floor with TruSoft cellulose. This Attic is now fully insulated and will keep the home owner warm in the winter and cool in the summer.  

Problem: 

This homeowner had a problem with cooling their home. It never seemed to get cold even though they had the A/C on. This homeowner contacted us to take a look at their attic and knew wall space. We did our free evaluation check-up and talked to the homeowner about our findings and came up with the idea that Re-doing the insulation in the attic and the knee wall space was the best plan.

Solution: 

Our team got right to work to make this homeowner happy. We first started by taking out and throwing out all the old, moldy insulation. Then the team sealed up the floor cracks with ZypFoam this ensures no heat slips through any cracks of the attic and knee wall. We also put down SilverGlo Foamax boards and sprayed the attic with R60 Cellulose. Now, this home is fully insulated and no heat will slip through and go into the home.

Problem:

This old home has an old crawl space under the house that is not insulated causing condensation, mold, rots, pests and odors, cold floors, drafts, and higher fuel and electric bills. We got the call from the homeowner to see if we can help. We knew exactly the issue and knew how to take care of it fast and efficiently.

Solution: 

We talked it over with the homeowner and they agreed and were excited to see the money they will save on their energy bills. We sprayed the wood with the MoldX2 cleaner and sprayed the rim joists with our foam that has a high insulation value per in of R7. Then we sealed up the vented crawl space with dimpled matting and layered it with TerraBlock foam insulation and GoalSeal liner. We cleaned up the space and notified the homeowner we were done.

Thanks to Dr. Energy Saver by Fogarty's Home Services

Are you experiencing cold floors and drafty and uncomfortable rooms?

Problem:

If you are experiencing any of these you could have leaky and poorly insulated rim joists in your basement or crawl space. A homeowner in Canton, CT was experiencing just that. The problem is the rim joists are the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. These joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed so it will not stop the airflow through them.

Solution:

At Dr. Energy saver we use a two-part expanding spray foam that is sealed on rim joists and over sill plates to seal all air leaks from outside and insulate the area of your home. In this case, we were sealing up the basement. This homeowner has a finished basement and they enjoyed hanging out in the basement. They wanted to make sure it was properly sealed up. We took our Special spray foam that has a high insulation value per inch of R7 and sealed up all the cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside entered. This resulted in warmer floors, fewer drafts, and more comfortable rooms.

Under Insulated Crawl Space Needed the Removal of Existing Old Insulation to Prepare For a Crawl Space Encapsulation System to Make The Home More Energy Efficient and Comfortable. 

This home had a crawl space that was under-insulated due to old insulation that wasn't providing any insulation value with chicken wiring holding fiberglass up. The homeowner also had windows that were not properly air-sealed causing air leaks. 

Crawl space repair with a crawl space encapsulation system and air sealing of all air leaks was the solution to fix this uncomfortable home. 

Removing the old fiberglass insulation was the first step. Then conduct the installation of our crawl space encapsulation system with drainage matting, terrablock™ floor insulation, and SilverGlo™ on the crawl space walls. To finish the encapsulation we added a heavy-duty finishing liner attaching it permanently to the crawl space floor. This liner features antimicrobial ingredients in the product. After that, we sealed off the window with the everlast crawl space door material. Then finally spray foamed the rim joists to air seal and protect the home from any cold air entering the home to finish the crawl space insulation. 

Has your home every felt drafty?

This could be due to poor or old insulation. Older insulation in your home is a very common in homes built before 1980, when building codes began for insulation minimums. Insulation standards weren't great when they began, but they have improved over the years. If you haven't had one of our experts evaluate your insulation, it may be time to call us to take a look. We could help you reduce your home's energy consumption up to 30% and make your home more comfortable with our insulation solutions.

Condo built in 1984 needed rim joist air sealing & insulation to improve the home's overall comfort, health, and energy efficiency.

The original owner of this home reached out to us for help with improving the comfort level in his home.

Fogarty's Home Services installed Spray Foam in the Rim Joist of this basement to seal and insulate the area. We also removed and replaced 6 feet of sheetrock that wasn't functioning properly.

Another happy customer is seeing a decrease in energy costs and an increase in comfort in his home.

WE FIX UNCOMFORTABLE HOMES!

The homeowner reached out to Fogarty's Home Services because her basement window was old, leaky, and inefficient. We removed the old window and replaced it with an Everlast™ Basement Window.  We sealed the window airtight. This happy homeowner will now experience a warmer basement, warmer floors above the basement, less drafts, and lower energy costs. 

Steps from your basement to the outdoors are convenient, but the (metal) hatch doors that cover them are completely uninsulated and leak lots of air. Cold winter air gets sucked into your home continually in winter. In summer, warm humid air enters the basement and causes condensation on cool floor, wall and duct surfaces. Results - Cold basement, cold floors on first floor, drafts, higher heating fuel costs, condensation in summer, higher electric costs for A/C. Proper framing is installed and a new insulated exterior door with weather-stripping and locking knob is installed. Now "inside" the house is inside the door, and "outside" is outside the door, so it doesn't matter that the hatch door is uninsulated and leaks air. Result - warmer basement and floors over the basement, drier basement in summer, lower fuel and electric costs, less drafts, house easier to heat, more security.

Attic hatch pull down stairs are necessary to access your attic. The problem is that when closed, they leak a LOT of air that you paid to heat from your home to the vented attic where it is lost. All of this warm air leaving the top of the house is replaced with cold outside air entering at the lower levels of your home, causing drafts, cold floors and uncomfortable rooms that are hard to heat. In addition to these problems, your pull down stairs are a big area in your ceiling that is not insulated - and your attic can be 30°F in the winter and a blazing 130°F in the summer! Result - cold, drafty rooms that are hard to heat, high overall home air leakage, and higher heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills. Fogarty's Home Services has an exclusive "David Lewis Hatch Cover" (named for our engineer who developed it) that rests right over your pull down stairs. It stops air leakage and insulates over the stairs. Made of lightweight SilverGlo™ foam insulation, you just lift it aside to go up to your attic, and set it back in place when you leave. You don't see anything from the finished area of your home. SilverGlo™ foam insulation has graphite infused into the foam which bumps up the insulation value by 24% over standard EPS foam. It also has a radiant barrier (foil) on the flat lid to reflect heat back in during winter and out in the summer, so the insulation isn't doing all the work by itself. Result - a tighter, more comfortable, less drafty home you'll notice. Rooms are easier to heat. Lower fuel and electric bills.

Your poured concrete basement walls are buried in the cool earth and are perpetually cold - about 17°F cooler than we like the interior of our homes to be. In the winter, the part of the foundation that sticks up above the ground is much colder than that. Heat moves from more to less. The dense concrete has a lot of mass and heat from our basement constantly flows into and through the wall by conduction. You can never heat them up. If you have a furnace, boiler, or water heater in the basement, the heat that comes off this equipment is wasted - lost into the cold concrete, instead of warming the basement and floors above it. In the summer, warm humid air from outside hits your cold basement walls and condensation forms, supporting mold. Results - cold basement, cold floors above the basement, higher fuel bills, more difficult to heat the house. Foam insulation board is installed on your basement walls with Dr. Energy Saver's proprietary Foam-site fasteners. But not just any foam - Polyisocyanurate foam has the flame retardant properties to satisfy building codes to leave it exposed in a basement - unlike expanded or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS, XPS). In addition, the "polyiso" board has a foil facing to reflect heat so the insulation isn't doing all the work by itself. Results - warmer, more comfortable basement, warmer floors above basement, less condensation in the summertime, lower fuel bills, house is easier to heat. 

A kneewall space is created when a finished room is built within a sloped roof. A short wall called a "kneewall" forms a triangular space which mar or may not be accessible with a short door or access panel. The floor of the kneewall space forms the ceiling of the room below it. The floor and kneewall space side with exposed fiberglass batts. Since fiberglass does not stop air flow, the insulation does next to nothing to air seal and insulate. The floor of the upper level, the ceiling of the lower level and the kneewall are all cold in winter and hot (from radiant roof heat) in the summer. The kneewall space is not suitable for storage since it is dusty and very cold or hot. Blocks of SilverGlo™ foam insulation are installed between the ceiling joist bays. Outside the blocks, the surface of the ceiling is sealed with sprayed foam or SilverGlo™ foam. (Fiberglass insulation may be installed on top). SilverGlo™ foam insulation is installed under the rafters up to the kneewall and sealed at the top with foam sealant. SilverGlo™ is expanded polystyrene foam insulation with graphite infused into the foam, which increases the R-value by 24% compared to regular EPS foam. SilverGlo™ also has a radiant barrier on both sides to reflect roof heat out in the summer and house heat back in during the winter. The addition of this radiant barrier gives some thermal benefit so the insulation isn't left alone to do all the work. After installation, inside air can't get out of the house through the kneewall spaces and outside air can't get in. Insulation is added, with integrity, to the correct surfaces. Results - significantly warmer upstairs room in the winter, cooler room upstairs in the hot weather, less drafts, more comfort, less dust. A kneewall space suitable for clean storage. Lower fuel and electric bills.  

Many older homes have no insulation in the exterior walls. The problems this causes are obvious. Heat flows from more (inside) to less (outside in winter) right through the walls, and the opposite in summer. Nealy all walls leak air, insulated or not, causing drafts. the cold wall surface cools interior air which then sinks and travels across the floor and up the warmer interior wall, and across the floor and up the warmer interior wall, and across the ceiling back to the exterior wall. The is called a "convective loop" and makes rooms feel even draftier. Results - cold, drafty rooms, uncomfortable home, heating and cooling systems run much more and need more service, difficult to keep house at comfortable temperature, high fuel and electric bills, dry home in winter, more dust/pollen, more humidity in the house in summer when air conditioned. Siding is removed temporarily as necessary and 2 ⁹⁄₁₆" holes are drilled through the wall sheathing. A fill tube is inserted up (and down) into wall cavities to not only fill, but dense pack the wall cavities. Dense packing is a technique that packs the insulation in very tightly - so tightly that all irregular shaped cavities and crevices in the wall cavities are filled, and air will not penetrate the dense packed cellulose. It's remarkable, and something that can't be achieved with fiberglass - not even close! Dense packed cellulose stops air flow through the wall and insulates. TruSoft™ Cellulose is treated to be highly fire, mold, and pest resistant. Holes are plugged and siding is put back. With wood siding, old nail holes and new nails may be noticeable on close inspection. Very small new nail heads will be visible on aluminum siding. (If specified, siding will not be removed, but drilled and plugged instead). Results - A less drafty, warmer, quieter, more comfortable house, less dust/pollen, house not so dry in winter, lower fuel/electric bills, heating system runs less - less maintenance. 

Attic insulation in this customer's home was old and very dirty. Over many years, it sat there collecting dirt, dust, pollen, bugs, rodent feces (from mice, squirrels, bats, etc.), bird droppings and nests of all kinds of undesirable things. It's possible that old insulation like this can be moved aside for a proper air sealing job that must be done prior to adding enough TruSoft™ blown cellulose insulation to today's standards - but we removed the old, nasty insulation from our customer's home so she could start fresh. Fogarty's Home Services conducted the unpleasant task of removing the damaged, soiled insulation in your attic. The batt insulation was bagged and then the attic was vacuumed to remove pieces, parts and dust. Loose fill insulation was also vacuumed with a giant vacuum located outside with giant filter bags and a very long, fat hose. Result - Now our customer's attic is clean! It's ready for proper air sealing and installation of clean, new, fresh TruSoft™ cellulose insulation or one of our other Dr. Energy Saver strategies to make her home comfortable and energy efficient.

The "rim joist" is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batt insulation, doesn't stop the flow of cold air into your home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on rim joist and over sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of your home. Fogarty's Home Services uses a Dr. Energy Saver spray foam with a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks, gaps, and joints where air from the outside enters your home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, your house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

The building code requires that no combustible materials, including wood framing and insulation, be within 2" of a masonry chimney. This has left millions of homes with an airspace from the basement or crawl space right to the attic. Air that you paid to heat is continually leaking out of your home to the vented attic where it is lost. Results - a more drafty, uncomfortable house that harder to heat, and higher energy bills. First, the space between the wood framing and masonry is flashed with metal and then sealed airtight with special high temperature fire caulk. Then, completely fireproof "Rock Wool" insulation panels are installed around the chimney so that TruSoft™ cellulose insulation may be blown against the chimney. "Chimney Wrap" leaves no gaps in the insulation around your chimney, and seals one of the biggest air leaks in your home. Results - lower house air leakage, less heat loss, a more comfortable home that is easier to heat, and lower energy bills.

A kneewall space is created when a finished room is built within a sloped roof. A short wall called a "kneewall" forms a triangular space which may or may not be accessible with a short door or access panel. The floor of the kneewall space forms the ceiling of the room below it. The floor and kneewall itself are open to the kneewall space side with exposed fiberglass batts. Since fiberglass does not stop air flow, the insulation does next to nothing to air seal and insulate. The floor of the upper level, the ceiling of the lower level, and the kneewall are all cold in winter and hot (from radiant roof heat) in the summer. The kneewall space is not suitable for storage since it is dusty and very cold or hot. Blocks of SilverGlo™ foam insulation are installed between the ceiling joist bays. Outside the blocks, the surface of the ceiling is sealed with sprayed foam or SilverGlo™ foam. SilverGlo™ foam insulation is installed under the rafters up to the kneewall and sealed at the top of the foam sealant. SilverGlo™ is expanded polystyrene foam insulation with graphite infused into the foam, which increases the R-value by 24% compared to regular EPS foam. SilverGlo™ also has a radiant barrier on both sides to reflect roof heat out in the summer and house heat back in during the winter. The addition of this radiant barrier gives some thermal benefit so the insulation isn't left alone to do all the work. After installation, inside air can't get out of the house through the kneewall spaces and outside air can't get in. Insulation is added, with integrity, to the correct surfaces. Results - significantly warmer upstairs rooms in the winter, cooler rooms upstairs in the hot weather, less drafts, more comfort, less dust, and lower fuel costs. In addition, the kneewall space is now suitable for clean storage. 

The building code requires that no combustible materials, including wood framing and insulation, be within 2" of a masonry chimney. This has left millions of homes with an airspace from the basement or crawl space right to the attic. Air that you paid to heat is continually leaking out of your home to the vented attic where it is lost. Results - a more drafty, uncomfortable house that harder to heat, and higher energy bills. First, the space between the wood framing and masonry is flashed with metal and then sealed airtight with special high temperature fire caulk. Then, completely fireproof "Rock Wool" insulation panels are installed around the chimney so that TruSoft™ cellulose insulation may be blown against the chimney. "Chimney Wrap" leaves no gaps in the insulation around your chimney, and seals one of the biggest air leaks in your home. Results - lower house air leakage, less heat loss, a more comfortable home that is easier to heat, and lower energy bills.

Many older homes have no insulation in the exterior walls. The problems this causes are obvious. Heat flows from more (inside) to less (outside in winter) right through the walls, and the opposite in summer. Nealy all walls leak air, insulated or not, causing drafts. the cold wall surface cools interior air which then sinks and travels across the floor and up the warmer interior wall, and across the floor and up the warmer interior wall, and across the ceiling back to the exterior wall. The is called a "convective loop" and makes rooms feel even draftier. Results - cold, drafty rooms, uncomfortable home, heating and cooling systems run much more and need more service, difficult to keep house at comfortable temperature, high fuel and electric bills, dry home in winter, more dust/pollen, more humidity in the house in summer when air conditioned. Siding is removed temporarily as necessary and 2 ⁹⁄₁₆" holes are drilled through the wall sheathing. A fill tube is inserted up (and down) into wall cavities to not only fill, but dense pack the wall cavities. Dense packing is a technique that packs the insulation in very tightly - so tightly that all irregular shaped cavities and crevices in the wall cavities are filled, and air will not penetrate the dense packed cellulose. It's remarkable, and something that can't be achieved with fiberglass - not even close! Dense packed cellulose stops air flow through the wall and insulates. TruSoft™ Cellulose is treated to be highly fire, mold, and pest resistant. Holes are plugged and siding is put back. With wood siding, old nail holes and new nails may be noticeable on close inspection. Very small new nail heads will be visible on aluminum siding. (If specified, siding will not be removed, but drilled and plugged instead). Results - A less drafty, warmer, quieter, more comfortable house, less dust/pollen, house not so dry in winter, lower fuel/electric bills, heating system runs less - less maintenance. 

At Fogarty's Home Services, focusing on air sealing and insulating ceilings is critical to making a home comfortable and energy efficient, but some homes are constructed with rooms that have walls exposed to the hostile attic temperatures. It's part of why rooms are too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. If the fiberglass insulation in the wall between the room and attic is exposed (open faced to the attic), it will not give much insulation value at all because air and heat go through the fluffy open matrix of the insulation easily. Results - Uncomfortable rooms that are hard to heat and cool, and higher energy bills. SilverGlo™ is an expanded polystyrene foam insulation board with graphite infused into the foam. This gives it a 24% higher insulation value per inch than standard EPS foam. It also has a shiny radiant barrier to reflect heat as well, so the insulation isn't doing all the work itself. The SilverGlo™ is applied and sealed to the attic side of the interior walls to stop heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. Results - More comfortable rooms that are easier to heat and cool, and lower energy bills.

At Fogarty's Home Services, focusing on air sealing and insulating ceilings is critical to make a home comfortable and energy efficient. But, some homes are construction with rooms that have walls exposed to the hostile attic temperatures. It's part of why rooms are too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. If the fiberglass insulation in the wall between the room and the attic is exposed (open faced to the attic), it will not give much insulation value at all because air and heat go through the fluffy open matrix of the insulation easily. Results - Uncomfortable rooms that are hard to heat and cool and higher energy bills. SilverGlo™ is an expanded polystyrene foam insulation board with graphite infused into the foam. This gives it a 24% higher insulation value per inch than standard EPS foam. It also has a shiny radiant barrier to reflect heat as well, so the insulation isn't doing all the work itself. The SilverGlo™ is applied and sealed to the attic side of the interior walls to stop heat gain in the summer and heat loss in the winter. Results - More comfortable rooms that are easier to heat and cool and lower energy bills. 

The building code requires that no combustible materials, including wood framing and insulation, be within 2" of a masonry chimney. this has left millions of homes with an airspace from the basement or crawl space right to the attic. Air that you paid to heat is continually leaking out of your home to the vented attic where it is lost. Results - a more drafty, uncomfortable home that's harder to heat, higher fuel and electric bills. First, the space between the wood framing and masonry is flashed with metal and then sealed airtight with special high-temperature fire caulk. Then, completely fireproof "Rock Wool" insulation panels are installed around the chimney so that TruSoft™ cellulose insulation may be blown against the chimney. In some cases, unfaced fiberglass batts may be used instead of Rock Wool panels. "Chimney Wrap" leaves no gaps in the insulation around your chimney, and seals one of the biggest air leaks in your home. Results - Lower house air leakage, less heat loss, home is more comfortable and easier to heat, lower fuel bills.

Home builders paid little attention to the energy efficiency or looks of basement windows, often choosing the cheapest option available. This leaves you with single pane glass windows with metal frames that let lots of cold air leak into your home. Single pane clear glass lets heat from your home escape by conduction through the cold glass. Metal is highly thermally conductive and a poor material for a window frame. And metal rusts in the damp environment near the ground. Perhaps the worst part is that these basement windows leak air, lots of it, because the house has lower air pressure at the bottom and sucks cold outside air into your home, causing a cold basement and cold floors above. And let’s face it, these windows are ugly.  Cold basement, cold floors upstairs, drafts, higher fuel and electric bills, more condensation in the basement in the summertime, and a less comfortable home are the problems.

DR. ENERGY SAVER'S® SOLUTION is Everlast™ High Efficiency Vinyl Window Inserts.  Your window sashes are removed and Everlast™ basement window inserts are installed and sealed airtight. They feature 2 panes of high performance “Low E” glass, which let’s visible light through but blocks most of the heat flow with a special metallic coating on the inside of both panes of glass. The sash features a vinyl frame, the perfect material for a window in the damp environment near the ground. The vinyl looks great and will never rust, rot or need paint.  Your new efficient windows will look great! The result, a warmer basement, warmer floors above the basement, less drafts, less condensation in summer, lower overall home air leakage, and lower fuel and electric bills.

Some homes or additions are designed with floors that have the outside air under them. Other times a home or addition was originally used as a summer home, porch or “three season room”, and was converted to all season heated space later. When the outside air flows under a floor it feels very cold and uncomfortable in the winter - especially with ceramic tile, linoleum or laminate floors. Since the floor is the surface of the room we are in contact with most, it’s very important to fix, in order to be comfortable. There are two issues - air leakage through the floor, and conductive heat loss through the floor, because heat moves from more to less through solid materials. Even if there is fiberglass batt insulation in the floor, because it sags down away from the sub floor, the same outside air gets over it (“thermal bypass”) rendering it useless.

The floor joist bays, whether hollow or insulated with batts, are “dense packed” with TruSoft™ cellulose insulation. “Dense packing” is Dr. Energy Saver’s special technique to pack the cellulose in so tightly that it stops air flow through the floor. The insulation can be installed by removing siding and drilling holes to insert a fill pipe, (holes are plugged and siding is reinstalled), or through the bottom of the floor. TruSoft™ fills all gaps and odd shaped cavities in the floor - even around pipes, wires and cross bridging. TruSoft™ is treated to be fire retardant, and pest and mold resistant. Dense packed TruSoft™ also quiets your floors dramatically, getting rid of that hollow floor sound. The result - Much warmer floors, less drafts and more comfortable rooms, quieter home, lower fuel and electric bills.

A kneewall space is created when a finished room is built within a sloped roof. A short wall called a “kneewall” forms a triangular space which may or may not be accessible with a short door or access panel. The floor of the kneewall space forms the ceiling of the room below it. The floor and kneewall itself are open to the kneewall space side with exposed fiberglass batts. Since fiberglass does not stop air flow, the insulation does next to nothing to air seal and insulate. The floor of the upper level, the ceiling of the lower level and the kneewall are all cold in winter and hot (from radiant roof heat) in the summer. The kneewall space is not suitable for storage since it is dusty and very cold or hot.

Blocks of SilverGlo™ foam insulation are installed between the ceiling joist bays. Outside the blocks, the surface of the ceiling is sealed with sprayed foam or SilverGlo™ foam.  SilverGlo™ foam insulation is installed under the rafters up to the kneewall and sealed at the top with foam sealant. SilverGlo™ is expanded polystyrene foam insulation with graphite infused into the foam, which increases the R-value by 24% compared to regu-lar EPS foam. SilverGlo™ also has a radiant barrier on both sides to reflect roof heat out in the summer and house heat back in during the winter. The addition of this radiant barrier gives some thermal benefit so the insulation isn’t left alone to do all the work. After installation, inside air can’t get out of the house through the kneewall spaces and outside air can’t get in. Insulation is added, with integrity, to the correct surfaces. 

The results are a significantly warmer upstairs room in the winter, cooler room upstairs in the hot weather, less drafts, more comfort, less dust and a kneewall space suitable for clean storage. Lower fuel and electric bills.

The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiber-glass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into your home. This leads to cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

Two part expanding spray foam is in-stalled on rim joist and over sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insu-late this important area of your home. Dr. Energy Saver’s spray foam has a high in-sulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters your home.

Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, your house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less sum-mertime condensation on cold base-ment surfaces.

The problem is, that millions of homes were built with vented dirt crawl spaces. Now all Home Comfort Specialists agree - that was a big mistake. Now building codes are changing. In the winter, vents let cold air directly into our home. Floor insulation sags away from the sub floor and the cold air gets above it - rendering the insulation useless. In the summer the vents let warm humid air in which is cooled by the subterranean crawl space. This caused the relative humidity to go way up and condensation to form all over the crawl space surfaces including floor joists and ducts. Mold grows and wood rots, while insect and other pests flourish. Musty odors can be noticed upstairs as mold spores travel upwards into the living space. Eventually rotted floor joist must be replaced and mold must be remediated. An unending stream of water vapor comes up from the ground adding to the moisture load in the crawl space and house. The damp air is harder to heat and cool. The Result - condensation, mold, rot, pests and odors, cold floors, drafts, an uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills.

The Solution is a CleanSpace™ Encapsulation System with Drainage Matting, TerraBlock™ Floor Insulation and SilverGlo™ Insulation on the Walls. 

Your vents and other air leaks to the outside are sealed, often using our insulated vent covers. Walls are insulated with SilverGlo™ insulation with a reflective radiant barrier face. SilverGlo™ foam has graphite infused into the foam to increase the R-value by 24% over standard foam. A dimpled plastic drainage matting is installed across the floor to create an airspace and thermal break, and TerraBlock™ floor insulation is installed over it. Finally the heavy duty, 20 mil thick CleanSpace™ crawl space encapsulation liner is installed permanently across the dirt floor - sealed with mechanical fasteners to the walls and spiked to the floor. CleanSpace™ features Ultrafresh™ anti-microbial ingredients in the product. The results are, much lower humidity, much warmer floors upstairs, less drafts, a more comfortable house, and lower fuel and electric bills.

The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into your home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

Fogarty's Home services Solution, Spray Foam Rim Joist to seal and insulate.   Two part expanding spray foam is installed on rim joist and over sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of your home. Fogarty's Home Services spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters your home.  Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, your house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

The old thinking in crawl space construction was to vent the crawl space and create the thermal boundary (insulation layer) at the crawl space ceiling. It doesn’t work. Insulation is pulled by gravity away from the sub floor you’re supposed to be insulating. The same cold air under the insulation flows into the space on top of it - rendering the insulation useless. As the insulation gets heavier with moisture content, it falls away from the sub floor even more and can even fall to the floor. Fiberglass batt insulation has paper facing and organic material in the resin used to set the fibers into a batt - both are mold food.

Results - mold, smelly insulation that is not providing any insulation value and has sagged or even fallen.

Fogarty's Home Services will remove existing fiberglass batts from your crawl space. It’s not fun laying on your back in a tight (dirt) crawl space. Insulation has hostile fibers when it’s disturbed. The insulation is very bulky and takes up a tremendous amount of space in trucks and our dumpsters which must be emptied. But it’s necessary to have a healthy home in the end. 

Result - now your crawl space is ready to be fixed properly with other Fogarty's Home Services solutions. The thermal boundary will likely be moved to the crawl space walls and vents eliminated. No more nasty fiberglass insulation!

To insulate your attic properly, as you should, the benefits of a thick blanket of TruSoft™ blown cellulose insulation make it the best solution. But how can a serviceman get up there to service heating and cooling equipment if the attic floor has 17” of insulation over it? If you simply don’t insulate a path leading to the equipment, how can you get a properly insulated attic and a comfortable home? Fogarty's Home Services has the solution! 

First our exclusive SilverGlo™ board foam is installed across your ceiling joists or existing wood walkway. SilverGlo™ is expanded polystyrene foam with graphite infused into the foam which bumps up the insulation value by 24% over standard EPS foam. Then Oriented Standard Board (OSB) is installed over the SilverGlo™ with very long screws and 3” washers. To keep blown insulation off your new access catwalk, we install dams made of Oriented Strand Board approximately 18” higher than the drywall ceiling. When TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is blown into your attic, any space beneath the catwalk is filled.

The result is a clean, useful insulated catwalk to and in front of your heating/cooling equipment, separated from the TruSoft™ blown insulation in your attic.

This customer from Bloomfield, CT reached out due to very thin insulation in his attic. He wanted either new insulation or more insulation on top of it. Attic insulation in your home can get pretty nasty. Over many years it sits there collecting dirt, dust, pollen, bugs, rodent feces (from mice, squirrels, bats, etc.), bird droppings and nests and all kinds of undesirable things. It’s possible that old insulation like this can be moved aside for a proper air sealing job that must be done prior to adding enough TruSoft™ blown cellulose insulation to today’s standards - but why not remove the old, nasty insulation from your home and start fresh?

Fogarty's Home Services conducted the unpleasant task of removing the damaged, soiled insulation in that attic. Batt insulation is bagged and then the attic is vacuumed to remove pieces, parts and dust. Loose fill insulation is vacuumed with a giant vacuum located outside with giant filter bags and a very long, fat hose. Result - Now the attic is clean! It’s ready for proper air sealing and installation of clean, new, fresh cellulose insulation or one of our other Dr. Energy Saver strategies to make your home comfortable and energy efficient.

Our customer in East Windsor, CT was concerned regarding her attic insulation, as it had not been looked at in decades. She requested that a Home Comfort Specialist come out for an evaluation of her home. When he arrived, he immediately noticed the fact that the attic scuttle hole was uninsulated. A scuttle hole is necessary to access your attic. The problem is they leak a LOT of air that you paid to heat from your home to the vented attic where it is lost. All this air leaving the top of the house is replaced with cold outside air entering at the lower levels of your home, causing drafts, cold floors and uncomfortable rooms that are hard to heat. In addition to these problems, your scuttle hole is a big area in your ceiling that is not insulated - and your attic can be 30˚F in the winter and a blazing 130˚F in the summer! Result - cold, drafty rooms that are hard to heat, high overall home air leakage, and higher heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills.

The answer to this problem is simple. Fogarty's Home Services came out to air seal and insulate the scuttle cover. The scuttle cover is weather-stripped to stop air leakage. Then the cover is insulated with a SilverGlo™ foam insulation panel. SilverGlo™ has graphite infused into the foam which bumps up the R value (insulation value) by 24% over standard EPS foam. In addition, it has a radiant barrier on top to reflect heat from a hot summer attic. Result - a tighter, more comfortable, less drafty home you’ll notice. Rooms easier to heat and lower fuel and electric bills.

Our customer in Windsor, CT called with concerns about his crawl space. Unfortunately, he had been experiencing frozen pipes and also had a leak in his crawl space. However, the crawl space was especially hard to access due to the tight space, and he was unsure how to proceed. Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services' Home Comfort Specialist identified an immediate solution when they went to do the evaluation. They would need an outside access space for their crawl space as well as crawl space encapsulation to seal off and insulate the home. 

The Home Comfort Specialist and homeowner agreed that the best course of action was to install the Turtl™ Crawl Space access system. We first identified the best spot to dig in order to access the crawl space. We then dug down under the foundation and into the crawl space. We then installed the Turtl™, making sure to work around it while also using our other solutions. Luckily, the Turtl™ Crawl Space access system is an airtight door and a sealed access well in one durable unit. This highly specialized product is the only one of it’s kind manufactured anywhere and is perfect for it’s purpose. You can open the lid and crawl into your crawl space without getting wet or dirty. The Turtl™ even has a place for a lock on it, and will never rust, rot or need paint! It’s airtight and watertight* and you can jump on it without a problem! Result - An airtight, watertight, durable crawl space access that keeps your home clean and healthy. Lower energy bills. 

This customer called us due to water damage she had on her cellar door. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived at the home, he identified several things that needed to be remedied right away in order to have a safe and dry home. There were a number of basement waterproofing solutions we had to install.

One of these solutions was to create a trench drain in front of the bulkhead door in her home. This drain was connected to the water drainage system the customer had installed. The drain is easily walked over by any occupant of the home. Should water flow down the stairs toward the basement, it will immediately travel to that grated drain near the doorway. It will then enter the drainage system in the home. When it reaches the end of that drainage system, it reaches a pump. It is then pumped out of the system and into the surrounding soil. Combined with other basement waterproofing techniques, this homeowner is ensured that their house is protected from heavy water, keeping the occupants dry and safe! 

This customer in Windsor Locks, CT called us with concerns about his attic insulation. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived at his house, he noticed that the attic was vented. Vented attics are hostile places - 30˚F in winter and 125˚F in the summer. They are very bad places to store things, and the worst place to locate ducts because they are the extreme opposite temperature as the air in the ducts that you paid to heat or cool. The attic floor (your ceilings), allow air from inside the house to leak into the attic where it is lost. For each cubic foot of air that leaks out, a cubic foot of air from the outside enters the bottom of the house, making your lower levels cold and drafty. Heat from the house in the attic melts snow on the roof where it refreezes at the eaves causing destructive ice damming. In the summer, the sun heats your roof to 160˚F, which radiates to the attic and then to your ceilings and rooms. Results - Major heat loss to the attic from house and ducts in winter, and heat gain in summer, uncomfortable rooms, more drafts upstairs and downstairs, higher fuel/electric bills.

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services had a solution for this homeowner. We helped him by installing a SuperAttic™ Advanced Conversion System. SilverGlo™ EPS foam insulation board with graphite was installed on the underside of his roof deck. The graphite gives it superior R-value and a foil face on both sides reflects heat out in summer and back in during winter. The roof is still vented, kept cold in winter to prevent ice damming. In summer, excess heat is vented out. No harsh chemicals are sprayed in your home, like spray foam. The attic is now part of the conditioned space in your home, and ducts in the attic are no longer in a hostile environment. Your attic is clean, less dusty and suitable for storage. You can even finish your attic! Results - Your home is less drafty, warmer in winter and cooler in summer, lower fuel and electric bills, less dust.

This homeowner in West Simsbury, CT called us with concerns about his attic insulation. He was having a lot of issues with temperature differences in his home. Fogarty's Home Services' Home Comfort Specialist came out to see his home and noted that he had cathedral ceilings. This provided a unique issue to our team. Homes need R60 insulation in their attics - the equivalent of a 20” deep fiberglass batt. But cathedral ceilings only have the depth of the rafters (6”-11”) for insulation. Two factors relating to the optional vented roof design make the situation much worse. First, some of the rafter space is used for airflow (cold in winter) - which means even less space for insulation. Second, this air flow “wind washes” open faced fiberglass batts, reducing the R-value of batts that were designed and rated to be used in closed cavities with no airflow whatsoever. Result - your cathedral ceiling is dramatically under insulated. Air in your home that you paid to heat, hits the cold ceiling and descends, creating a “convective” loop making your room feel cold and drafty. In the summer, the roofing heats up to 160˚ and the roof heat radiates through the ceiling and heats up the room.

The best way to handle this issue is to dense pack the ceiling with TruSoft™ cellulose insulation through the soffit and fascia. The soffit vent is blocked with a continuous board which may need painting along with the fascia by the homeowner. The gutter and fascia board are removed and a TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is “dense packed” into the rafter bays through a long fill pipe inserted deep into the ceiling/roof. Dense packing fills all air spaces, compresses existing batt insulation, and stops air leakage. The ridge vent remains and functions not as an air vent, but a vapor vent. The fascia board and gutter are reinstalled. Some touch-up (patching and painting) of the ceiling may be required by the homeowner if nails pop, which doesn’t always happen, but can happen if the drywall is not secured well. Result - Room is warmer in winter, cooler in summer, less drafty, more comfortable, lower heating and cooling bills, easier to heat and cool.

This homeowner in Weatogue, CT called our company looking for crawlspace waterproofing. He was hoping to reduce moisture in his home, starting with the very moist crawlspace. When our Home Comfort Specialist got there, he noticed that the homeowner did not have an adequate sump pump. We needed to make sure that we installed solutions to the moisture first before we could waterproof the space. 

Fogarty's Home Services consulted with the homeowner and found that the best course of action was to install a SuperSump® sump pump. The SuperSump® is a well engineered sump system - with all the parts working together. It features a sturdy liner, airtight lid, 1/3 hp cast iron pump which can discharge up to 2200 gallons per hour, 8 feet high, and a stand to keep the pump out of silt and sediment. A WaterWatch® Alarm System alerts you to pump failure before your floor gets wet. Results - a more reliable sump pump, less air leakage from the sump hole, a drier crawlspace, less radon gas and odors, and a much safer and better looking installation. Now, his crawlspace is ready to move on to the next treatment -- encapsulation! 

This homeowner in Bloomfield, CT called us with concerns regarding air leaks he was experiencing in his home. The home was getting cold very quickly after the heat shuts off -- making his heat run excessively. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he noted that this home had can lights. Can lights are holes in the ceiling. Air leaks between the fixture and the drywall, and through the fixture itself because of the many holes and seams in it. To make matters worse, when the light is on, incandescent and halogen bulbs burn at 380˚F and this hot air rises faster and causes the can light to leak faster. Most can lights are not rated to have insulation against them because of the fire hazard when these fixtures get hot. And gaps in attic insulation cause heat loss in addition to the can light air leakage problem. Results - more drafts and colder rooms downstairs. Higher overall home air leakage rate. Higher heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills.

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services had a solution to his problem. We installed our TiteShell™ can light covers. They are placed over can lights, fitted around wires and fixture struts, and sealed air tight with expanding foam. TiteShell™ covers are safe from the fire hazards of hot bulbs and fixtures. Once TiteShells™ are installed, TruSoft™ insulation can be blown into the attic against and over them, eliminating costly gaps in insulation and adding R-value. Results - less drafts and more comfortable rooms - including downstairs. A tighter more energy efficient house, lower heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills, house is easier to heat and cool.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT initially called us out to his home due to a water leak he was having in his basement. Our Home Comfort Specialist came out to take a look at the basement and to ensure that we found the best solutions for this customer. High humidity in a basement or crawlspace is caused by a number of important conditions that must be addressed such as open vents, leaking groundwater and dirt floors - all which must be fixed otherwise. High humidity causes many problems in a home such as mold (which grows at Relative Humidities [RH] above 75%), rot (which happens above 90% RH) odors, airborne mold spores that aggravate allergies and asthma, increased pests and insects such as termites, and higher air conditioning and heating costs. Since air rises up from the crawl space to the living space, if the basement or crawl space is humid and smelly, so is the upstairs because of it. Once air and water leaks in a crawl space or basement are fixed and the soil is isolated from the earth, an additional measure is needed to ensure the relative humidity stays low at all times, in all seasons. Result - cold floors above, condensation, mold, rot, odors, drafty, uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills

Fogarty's Home Services provided several solutions to this customer. The solution the homeowner and team settled on was to help control the humidity in his basement with our SaniDry™ Sedona air system. The SaniDry™ Sedona air system is a powerful but energy efficient dehumidification and air filtration system in one unit. Able to remove an incredible 100 pints of water per day and using only 5.9 amps of electricity, the SaniDry™ Sedona drains automatically to a sump pump or the outside with a condensate pump. It has a powerful 310 cfm blower to circulate the dry air completely around to dry building materials and contents. Mold doesn’t have a chance! An automatic control is easy - set it to 55% RH and forget it - the SaniDry™ Sedona does the rest! And there’s no buckets to empty! Results - Low Relative Humidity, mold stops growing, odors are reduced, crawl space/basement is suitable for storage, lower air conditioning cost, upstairs is dryer.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT reached out to us due to a large amount of water she had in her basement. Upon arriving at her home, our Home Comfort Specialist noticed she did not have an adequate sump pump. A sump pump is a critically important part of a home because it keeps an entire level of a home protected against flooding - which could cause thousands of dollars in property damage, clean up time, and aggravation. A single sump pump will fail one day due to mechanical failure, a power outage, a circuit breaker tripping, or it may not be able to keep up with the volume of water in a heavy storm. Results - a flooded basement, mess, property damage, and mold!

Our team at Fogarty's Home Services worked with this homeowner to determine the best course of action for her home. Our first course of action was to install a TripleSafe™ sump pump system. The TripleSafe™ sump pump system has 3 pumps to protect from flooding. The first pump is a 1/3 hp, cast iron Zoeller pump that can pump up to 2,200 gallons per hour, 8 feet high. Should the first pump fail or not be able to keep up with the temporary heavy flow of water, a 1/2 AC back up pump on a separate discharge line can pump 3,900 gallons of water per hour. If the power fails, then a third, battery operated "UltraSump" pump automatically pumps up to 12,000 gallons of water out of your basement! An airtight lid keeps moisture, odors, and radon gas out of your basement. The TripleSafe™ system is the highest quality sump pump protection in the world! Results - you have peace of mind knowing you have both AC and DC powered back up pumps to keep your basement dry! 

To install this, we first dug the hole where the sump pump system itself should go -- removing the old sump pump. We then proceeded to build drainage lines both inside the home and outside it. We dug trenches in order to keep the drainage line safe in the yard. We set the spot where it would drain far away from the house in order to best protect it.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us due to concerns that she needed additional insulation in her attic. Our Home Comfort Specialist arrived to the home and noted that she was using the attic to store items. This is a very common occurrence, but it is hard to store things in a properly insulated attic. In the winter, air that you paid to heat leaks up into the vented attic and is lost to the outside - which draws cold outside air in at the bottom of your home causing drafts. A poorly insulated attic floor allows heat from your living space to be lost to the outdoors through the vented attic. If the attic is needed for storage, then blowing 17” of loose fill insulation on the attic floor is not an option. Results - An uncomfortable drafty house that’s hard to heat and cool, and a dilemma as to how best to fix it.

We had the perfect solution to fit this customer's needs. We worked with the customer and eventually, they decided to go with a "SuperDeck" system. The complete “Attic SuperDeck” is an innovative solution that air seals and insulates the top of your home while providing the maximum storage space possible. First, major air leaks and leaks along exterior walls are sealed with expanding polyurethane foam. Then foam blocking is installed between joist. If the ceiling joist cavities are not filled with insulation, cellulose is used to fill them. Then soffit baffles are installed as necessary to keep loose insulation out of the soffits. Then wood dams are installed as shown to contain loose insulation installed on the outboard side of the SuperDeck. Then thick SilverGlo™ board foam is installed across the bulk of your attic floor and sealed to provide superior R-value. Finally, wood sheets are installed with special long screws to provide insulated storage decking. Results - a much warmer, more comfortable home, lower fuel and electric bills, home easier to heat and cool, lots of attic storage.

This homeowner in Bloomfield, CT called us regarding replacing his insufficient attic insulation. When we arrived in the home, we found that the attic was desperately in need of insulation. One weak spot was the area around chimney, which was not insulated at all. The building code requires that no combustible materials, including wood framing and insulation, be within 2” of a masonry chimney. This has left millions of homes with an airspace from the basement or crawl space right to the attic. Air that this homeowner was paying to heat was leaking out of his home to the vented attic, where it was lost. Results - a more drafty, uncomfortable house that’s harder to heat, higher fuel and electric bills.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer. Our solution was to wrap the chimney. First, the space between the wood framing and masonry was flashed with metal and then sealed airtight with special high temperature fire caulk. Then completely fireproof “Rock Wool” insulation panels were installed around the chimney so that cellulose insulation could be blown against the chimney. “Chimney Wrap” leaves no gaps in the insulation around your chimney, and seals one of the biggest air leaks in your home. Results - Lower house air leakage, less heat loss, home is more comfortable and easier to heat - lower fuel bills.

This homeowner in Wethersfield, CT called us when her basement was having flooding issues. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived at the home, he noted that she needed a new sump pump. A sump pump is a critically important part of a home because it keeps an entire level of your home protected against flooding - which could cause many thousands of dollars in property damage, clean up time, and aggravation. A single sump pump will fail one day due to mechanical failure, a power outage, a circuit breaker tripping, or it may not be able to keep up with the volume of water in a heavy storm. Results - A flooded basement, mess, property damage, and mold - just what you're trying to avoid! 

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this customer. We installed our TripleSafe™ sump pump system in her home. The TripleSafe™ sump pump system has 3 pumps to protect from flooding. The first pump is a 1/3 hp, cast iron Zoeller pump that can pump up to 2,200 gallons per hour, 8 feet high. Should the first pump fail or not be able to keep up with the temporary heavy flow of water, a 1/2 AC back-up pump in a separate discharge line can pump 3,900 gallons of water per hour. If the power fails, then a third, battery operated "UltraSump" pump automatically pumps up to 12,000 gallons of water out of a basement! An airtight lid keeps moisture, odors and radon gas out of the basement. The TripleSafe™ system is the highest quality sump pump protection in the world! Results - homeowner has peace of mind knowing they have both AC and DC powered back up pumps to keep their basement dry! 

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us when she received an energy evaluation from a separate service that claimed that she had "absolutely no insulation in her home". She had spent several cold winters in the home since she had purchased it, and did not want to spend another winter in her home when it was that cold. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived in her home, he confirmed that she had no insulation in her home. This included her crawlspace. A lack of insulation can cause issues, including high relative humidity. High relative humidity in a crawl space will cause mold to grow on the surfaces of framing lumber, sub floors, insulation, and everywhere. Spores are the airborne seeds of mold, which are produced when the mold is growing and active. These spores float on airstreams up from the crawl space into the living space, and people with sensitivities can react to them. When we fix a crawl space properly, the crawl space will dry out enough so mold will not continue to grow. But what can be done to treat and eliminate the mold that’s already there?

Our solution to this issue was simple. This customer had her home treated with Mold-X2 Cleaner and Mold-X2 Botanical treatments. Mold-X2 Cleaner effectively eliminates mold and mildew stains on contact. It is non-abrasive and non-flammable, and is sprayed on effected areas. There is a temporary odor from the product, so we recommended that the homeowners leave the house for a few hours. Once Mold-X2 Cleaner was applied, the mold disappeared instantly, leaving wood surface looking nearly new. Mold-X2 Botanical, a plant-based disinfectant with a pleasant, temporary scent, was sprayed on the surfaces, which prevents mold from growing back. Now the crawl space is ready for other solutions. Results – The mold is eliminated, with no odors or potential for wood rot. The crawl space is now ready for a permanent repair to keep humidity low.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us after being referred by her plumber. The home was experiencing flooding coming from the floor drain, which flooded the basement multiple times. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived in the home, he noted that there was an inefficient sump pump. A sump pump is a critically important part of a home because it keeps an entire level of the home protected against flooding - which could cause many thousands of dollars in property damage, clean up time and aggravation. A single sump pump will fail one day due to mechanical failure, a power outage, a circuit breaker tripping, or it may not be able to keep up with the volume of water in a heavy storm. Results -- A flooded basement, mess, property damage, and mold -- just what this homeowner was trying to avoid! 

Our solution for this customer was the TripleSafe™ sump pump system. The TripleSafe™ system has 3 pumps to protect from flooding. The first pump is a 1/3 hp, cast iron Zoeller pump that can pump up to 2200 gallons per hour, 8 feet high. Should the first pump fail or not be able to keep up with the temporary heavy flow of water, a 1/2 hp AC back-up pump on a separate discharge line can pump 3900 gallons of water per hour. If the power fails, then a third, battery operated "UltraSump" pump automatically pumps up to 12,000 gallons of water out of the basement! An airtight lid keeps moisture, odors and radon gas out of the basement. The TripleSafe™ system is the highest quality sump pump protection in the world! Results -- the homeowner has peace of mind knowing she has both AC and DC powered back up pumps to keep her basement dry. 

This homeowner called us due to issues he was having with rodents in his attic. Unfortunately for this homeowner, the mice had been eating through his fiberglass insulation, and there were "tunnels" in it. This meant that the homeowner needed to have his attic re-insulated -- which is the perfect time to address issues such as air leaks. When it comes to making homes more comfortable, stopping air leakage at the top of the house is the #1 priority. Outside air leaking in at the bottom of your home only happens because warm air leaked out of the top. One spot that air was leaking through a lot in this homeowners home was around the can lights. Can lights are holes in the ceiling. Air leaks between the fixture and the drywall, and through the fixture itself because of the many holes and seams in it. To make matters worse, when the light is on, incandescent and halogen bulbs burn at 380˚F and this hot air rises faster and causes the can light to leak faster. Most can lights are not rated to have insulation against them because of the fire hazard when these fixtures get hot. And gaps in attic insulation cause heat loss in addition to the can light air leakage problem. Results - more drafts and colder rooms downstairs. Higher overall home air leakage rate. Higher heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills.

Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this customer. We installed our TiteShell™ can light covers over his can lights, fitted around wires and fixture struts, and sealed them air tight with expanding foam. TiteShell™ covers are safe from the fire hazards of hot bulbs and fixtures. Once TiteShells™ are installed, TruSoft™ insulation can be blown into the attic against and over them, eliminating costly gaps in insulation and adding R-value. Results - less drafts and more comfortable rooms - including downstairs. A tighter more energy efficient house, lower heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills, house is easier to heat and cool.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us hoping to improve his basement insulation. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he noted that the homeowner had inadequate windows. Home builders paid little attention to the energy efficiency or looks of basement windows, often choosing the cheapest option available. This leaves many homeowners today with single pane glass windows with metal frames that let lots of cold air leak into their homes. Single pane clear glass lets heat from the home escape by conduction through the cold glass. Metal is highly thermally conductive and a poor material for a window frame. And metal rusts in the damp environment near the ground. Perhaps the worst part is that these basement windows leak air - lots of it, because the house has lower air pressure at the bottom and sucks cold outside air into the home, causing a cold basement and cold floors above. And let’s face it, these windows are ugly. Results - cold basement, cold floors upstairs, drafts, higher fuel and electric bills, more condensation in the basement in the summertime, less comfortable home.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer's needs. We were able to install Everlast™ high efficiency vinyl windows in their basement. Their old windows and frames were removed. New Everlast™ basement windows were installed in their place. The sliding windows have double pane glass with a special metallic “Low E” coating on the inside of both panes of glass to reduce heat flow in or out through the glass. The frame and sashes are made completely from vinyl - the perfect material for a window so close to the ground in a damp environment - they will never rust, rot, or need paint. Results - warmer basement, warmer floors above the basement, less drafts, less condensation in summer, lower overall home air leakage, lower fuel and electric bills.

This homeowner from Windsor Locks, CT called us stating that his basement had flooded and he needed a sump pump as soon as possible to prevent it from happening again. Our Home Comfort Specialist arrived at the home to assess which sump pump would be best for his needs. He unfortunately had no sump pump installed in his basement - meaning all the water had nowhere to go. 

Fortunately for this homeowner, we were able to help him with his needs as soon as we possibly could. We installed a SuperSump® system in the home. The SuperSump® is a well engineered sump system - with all the parts working together. It features a sturdy liner, airtight lid, 1/3 hp cast iron pump which can discharge up to 2200 gallons per hour, 8 feet high, and a stand to keep the pump out of silt and sediment. A WaterWatch® Alarm System alerts you to pump failure before your basement floor gets wet. Results - a more reliable sump pump, less air leakage from the sump hole, a drier basement, less radon gas and odors, and a much safer and better looking installation!

This homeowner in South Windsor, CT called us stating that his insulation in his home was "not right". He wanted to have someone come and take a look. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived in the home, he noted that one of his biggest issues was the fact that the old door at the bottom of his basement stairs was extremely beaten up and uninsulated. Steps from the basement to the outdoors are convenient, but the (metal) hatch doors that cover them are completely uninsulated and leak lots of air. This is a problem when there is an inefficient door there. Cold winter air gets sucked into the home continually in winter. In summer, warm humid air enters the basement and causes condensation on cool floor, wall and duct surfaces. Results - Cold basement, cold floors on first floor, drafts, higher heating fuel costs, condensation in summer, higher electric costs for A/C.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer's needs. We took out the old door. We then installed a new, insulated exterior door at the bottom of the steps. Proper framing was installed and a new insulated exterior door with weather-stripping and a locking knob was installed. Now “inside” the house is inside the door, and “outside” is outside the door, so it doesn’t matter that the hatch door is uninsulated and leaks air. Result - warmer basement and floors over the basement, drier basement in summer, lower fuel and electric costs, less drafts, house easier to heat, more security.

This homeowner in Farmington, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with his crawlspace. He was very worried about pipes freezing down in the crawlspace, especially the water pipes that led to the bathroom. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived in the home, he noticed that the crawlspace was half fiberglass and half thin spray foam. He also noticed that the humidity level in the crawlspace was very high. High humidity in a crawl space is caused by a number of important conditions that must be addressed such as open vents, leaking groundwater and dirt floors - all which must be fixed otherwise. High humidity causes many problems in a home such as mold (which grows at Relative Humidities [RH] above 75%), rot (which happens above 90% RH) odors, airborne mold spores that aggravate allergies and asthma, increased pests and insects such as termites, and higher air conditioning and heating costs. Since air rises up from the crawl space to the living space, if the crawl space is humid and smelly, so is the upstairs because of it. Once air and water leaks in a crawl space are fixed and the soil is isolated from the earth, an additional measure is needed to ensure the relative humidity stays low at all times, in all seasons. Result - cold floors above, condensation, mold, rot, odors, drafty, uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills.

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this customer. We installed a SaniDry™ Sedona dehumidifier in the crawl space of the home. The SaniDry™ Sedona crawl space air system is a powerful but energy efficient dehumidification and air filtration system in one unit. It’s made specifically for the cooler temperatures found in below grade crawl spaces. Able to remove an incredible 100 pints of water per day and using only 5.9 amps of electricity, the SaniDry™ Sedona drains automatically to a sump or the outside with a condensate pump. It has a powerful 310 cfm blower to circulate the dry air completely around to dry building materials and contents. Mold doesn’t have a chance! An automatic control is easy - set it to 55% RH and forget it - the SaniDry™ Sedona does the rest! And there’s no buckets to empty! Results - Low Relative Humidity, mold stops growing, odors are reduced, crawl space is suitable for storage, lower air conditioning cost, upstairs is dryer.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT had a home that did not have insulated walls. A lot of it was also being torn out - providing a perfect time for our Home Comfort Specialist to evaluate the structure of the home. Heat moves from more to less - out of a building in winter, and into a building in summer. Insulation is needed to slow this heat flow down - the slower the better. Fiberglass insulation does a poor job stopping heat flow because it allows air to flow through and around it. Results - Uncomfortable spaces, high fuel and electric costs for heating and cooling.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution to fit this customer's needs. We insulated the walls with closed cell spray foam. Closed cell spray foam is different from fiberglass. Because it adheres to all surfaces, expands in place, and air cannot pass through it, it not only stops air flow through all the holes and cracks in the building assembly and materials, but it is superior insulation. With an R-value of 6.3 per inch (double or triple of fiberglass) and it’s ability to stop air flow, you simply can’t get better insulation. One inch of closed cell foam sprayed in place is worth many inches of other insulation materials. This is why spray foam is used in most “zero energy” homes. Results - A much more comfortable interior space, less drafts, space is easier to heat and cool.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us when she realized that her home was letting in chipmunks as well as cold air. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he noticed that her basement was very poorly and the rim joist had nothing in it that would actually seal the gaps. The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into your home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this customer with our two part expanding spray foam. Two part expanding spray foam was installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces. Plus, no chipmunks! 

This homeowner in Enfield, CT originally called us hoping for insulation in her converted sunroom. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived in the home, he noted that the home was losing a lot of heat around the can lights that they had installed. Outside air leaking in at the bottom of a home only happens because warm air leaked out of the top. Can lights are holes in the ceiling. Air leaks between the fixture and the drywall, and through the fixture itself because of the many holes and seams in it. To make matters worse, when the light is on, incandescent and halogen bulbs burn at 380˚F and this hot air rises faster and causes the can light to leak faster. Most can lights are not rated to have insulation against them because of the fire hazard when these fixtures get hot. And gaps in attic insulation cause heat loss in addition to the can light air leakage problem. Results - more drafts and colder rooms downstairs. Higher overall home air leakage rate. Higher heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills.

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this homeowner. Our TiteShell™ can light covers were installed over can lights, fitted around wires and fixture struts, and sealed air tight with expanding foam. TiteShell™ covers are safe from the fire hazards of hot bulbs and fixtures. Once TiteShells™ are installed, TruSoft™ insulation can be blown into the attic against and over them, eliminating costly gaps in insulation and adding R-value.  Results - less drafts and more comfortable rooms - including downstairs. A tighter more energy efficient house, lower heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills, house is easier to heat and cool.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to evaluate whether or not his attic insulation was adequate. As this is something we do every day, our Home Comfort Specialist had no issue coming out to see what the problem was. When he arrived, he noticed that the attic was poorly insulated and not air sealed at all. Air leaking in from the outside had blown dirt into the insulation, and even worse, had pushed the insulation around the attic! It’s possible that old insulation like this can be moved aside for a proper air sealing job that must be done prior to adding enough blown cellulose insulation to today’s standards - but with the inadequacies already present in the insulation, it was better to just start fresh.

We were able to help this homeowner by removing their old insulation. The loose fill insulation was vacuumed with a giant vacuum located outside with giant filter bags and a very long, fat hose. Result - Now the attic is clean! It’s ready for proper air sealing and installation of clean, new, fresh cellulose insulation or one of our other strategies to make the home comfortable and energy efficient.

This homeowner in Farmington, CT called us saying that she had a very cold home. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived at the home, he noted that the basement was not properly insulated, and the rim joist was not sealed. The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into a home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement in the summer.

Fogarty's had the perfect solution for this customer. Two part expanding spray foam was installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters a home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Granby, CT called us hoping that he could get his condo's attic re-insulated. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he noticed that the home's bath fans were venting straight into the attic.  Bathrooms have lots of destructive moisture when the shower is running. That’s why bathrooms have fans to get the moisture out. Often plumbers and electricians leave these fans dumping into the attic. But when warm humid air hits cold attic surfaces - it condenses into water. Results - Mold all over the roof deck, rafters, ceiling joists - and even rot.

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services has the perfect solution for this customer. We ducted the bath fan with insulated duct work through the gable end wall of the attic, with a vent hood on the outside. Result - Bath fan no longer feeds moisture to mold in the attic, and mold and rot from this source stop.

This homeowner in West Hartford, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her home. Part of her home was very cold, and the attic was losing a large amount of heat. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he noted that there was a chimney that had space around it with no insulation. The building code requires that no combustible materials, including wood framing and insulation, be within 2” of a masonry chimney. This has left millions of homes -- including this homeowner's! -- with an airspace from the basement right to the attic. Air that they paid to heat is continually leaking out of the home to the vented attic where it is lost. Results - a more drafty, uncomfortable house that’s harder to heat, higher fuel and electric bills.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we wrap the chimney to prepare for insulation. First, the space between the wood framing and masonry is flashed with metal and then sealed airtight with special high temperature fire caulk. Then fireproof “Rock Wool” insulation panels are installed around the chimney so that cellulose insulation may be blown against the chimney. Chimney wrapping leaves no gaps in the insulation around the chimney, and seals one of the biggest air leaks in the home. Results - Lower house air leakage, less heat loss, home is more comfortable and easier to heat - lower fuel bills.

This homeowner in Simsbury, CT called us hoping that we would be able to check the insulation in the home. When the Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he noted that there was very high humidity in the basement.  High humidity in a basement is caused by a number of important conditions that must be addressed such as open vents, leaking groundwater and dirt floors - all which must be fixed otherwise. High humidity causes many problems in a home such as mold (which grows at Relative Humidities [RH] above 75%), rot (which happens above 90% RH) odors, airborne mold spores that aggravate allergies and asthma, increased pests and insects such as termites, and higher air conditioning and heating costs. Since air rises up from the basement to the living space, if the basement is humid and smelly, so is the upstairs because of it. Once air and water leaks in a basement are fixed, an additional measure is needed to ensure the relative humidity stays low at all times, in all seasons. Result - cold floors above, condensation, mold, rot, odors, drafty, uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. The SaniDry™ Sedona air system is a powerful but energy efficient dehumidification and air filtration system in one unit. Able to remove an incredible 100 pints of water per day and using only 5.9 amps of electricity, the SaniDry™ Sedona drains automatically to a sump or the outside with a condensate pump. It has a powerful 310 cfm blower to circulate the dry air completely around to dry building materials and contents. Mold doesn’t have a chance! An automatic control is easy - set it to 55% RH and forget it - the SaniDry™ Sedona does the rest! And there’s no buckets to empty! Results - Low Relative Humidity, mold stops growing, odors are reduced, basement is suitable for storage, lower air conditioning cost, upstairs is dryer.

This homeowner in Simsbury, CT called us originally hoping for basement insulation in her home. When we arrived, we noticed that her window well was allowing rain into the basement. Open metal window wells let leaves and debris collect in them, blocking light to the basement. Rain gets in, and water from over flooding gutters cascades into your window wells. Weeds grow in your window wells since they have no bottom, and mud splashes up against your window glass. And let’s face it - they are ugly! Results - Constant maintenance, far less natural light to the basement, and they are ugly!

We had the perfect solution for this customer! We installed a SunHouse™ window enclosure. The SunHouse™ is a bright color and has a bottom to reflect much more light into the basement. The bottom prevents weeds from growing and mud doesn’t splash against the windows. SunHouses™ have a sturdy matching clear cover to keep rain and leaves out*, and it keeps the wind from blowing against the windows.

(*While a SunHouse™ keeps most water out it cannot warrant against a window/well flooding. (A window well drain system will be necessary if that is a problem).)

This homeowner in East Hartland, CT called us hoping that we would be able to insulate his home, even though it had vermiculite in it. Vermiculite often has asbestos in it, and the walls were filled with it. The Home Comfort Specialist came out to give his recommendations for replacement insulation, especially in the cantilever. A cantilevered floor sticks out past the wall below it. This building detail allows air to leak in, creating cold floors above and cold ceilings below. 

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this customer. Once the vermiculite was removed, we were able to dense pack the cantilever using TruSoft™ cellulose insulation. A 2 9/16” hole was drilled in each joist bay of the cantilever soffit. A special mesh bag was inserted into the hole and filled with TruSoft™ insulation via a hose and fill tube connected to a special blowing machine. Once packed full, the bag was pushed back towards the house and the cantilever spaces were “dense packed” with TruSoft™ cellulose insulation which stops air flow and insulates. Dense packing fills all spaces, however odd shaped they may be. The holes were then plugged. Result - warm floors and ceilings, less drafts, increased comfort, quieter home, lower fuel and electric bills.

This homeowner in East Windsor, CT called us hoping that we would be able to check out her basement for mold and poor insulation. When the Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he was able to confirm that she had a mold problem. High humidity in a basement is caused by a number of important conditions that must be addressed such as open vents and leaking groundwater - all which must be fixed otherwise. High humidity causes many problems in a home such as mold (which grows at Relative Humidities [RH] above 75%), rot (which happens above 90% RH) odors, airborne mold spores that aggravate allergies and asthma, increased pests and insects such as termites, and higher air conditioning and heating costs. Since air rises up from the basement to the living space, if the basement is humid and smelly, so is the upstairs because of it. Once air and water leaks in a basement are fixed and the soil is isolated from the earth, an additional measure is needed to ensure the relative humidity stays low at all times, in all seasons. Result - cold floors above, condensation, mold, rot, odors, drafty, uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer. The SaniDry™ Sedona air system is a powerful but energy efficient dehumidification and air filtration system in one unit. Able to remove an incredible 100 pints of water per day and using only 5.9 amps of electricity, the SaniDry™ Sedona drains automatically to a sump or the outside with a condensate pump. It has a powerful 310 cfm blower to circulate the dry air completely around to dry building materials and contents. Mold doesn’t have a chance! An automatic control is easy - set it to 55% RH and forget it - the SaniDry™ Sedona does the rest! And there’s no buckets to empty!Results - Low Relative Humidity, mold stops growing, odors are reduced, basement is suitable for storage, lower air conditioning cost, upstairs is dryer.

This homeowner in Unionville, CT called us hoping that he would be able to get his attic insulation looked at. He was having inconsistent heating in his home and had drafts throughout the house. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived in the home, he noted that the insulation in the home was physically falling apart and crumbling. It was Balsam Wool batt insulation, and it had degraded severely over the years. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. Attics are dramatically under-insulated compared to today’s standards. Result - cold drafty rooms downstairs, colder floors, house is harder to heat and keep comfortable, higher fuel and electric bills.

Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because it would just be burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. This is why a comprehensive solution is important. For this customer, we first carefully air sealed the many various points where air from the home leaks up into the attic and is lost. We used expanding foam, boards, caulk, and metal flashing and fire caulk around the masonry. Finally, our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation was blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided. Results - a warmer, more comfortable, less drafty house that the homeowner will notice everywhere - even downstairs! House is quieter. Fuel and electric bills are lower.

This homeowner in Wethersfield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her basement. The basement had a flooding issue. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he noted that the basement needed a new sump pump. A sump pump is a critically important part of a home because it keeps an entire level of the home protected against flooding - which could cause many thousands of dollars in property damage, clean up time and aggravation. Results -- A flooded basement, mess, property damage, and mold -- just what this homeowner was trying to avoid! 

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer -- the TripleSafe™ sump pump system. The TripleSafe™ system has 3 pumps to protect from flooding. The first pump is a 1/3 hp, cast iron Zoeller pump that can pump up to 2200 gallons per hour, 8 feet high. Should the first pump fail or not be able to keep up with the temporary heavy flow of water, a 1/2 hp AC back-up pump on a separate discharge line can pump 3900 gallons of water per hour. If the power fails, then a third, battery operated "UltraSump" pump automatically pumps up to 12,000 gallons of water out of the basement! An airtight lid keeps moisture, odors and radon gas out of the basement. The TripleSafe™ system is the highest quality sump pump protection in the world! Results -- the homeowner has peace of mind knowing she has both AC and DC powered back up pumps to keep her basement dry. 

This homeowner in Windsor Locks, CT called us hoping to get his basement windows replaced due to gaps between the windows and the wall. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived at the home, he noted that the basement was uninsulated, and this customer wanted to get that taken care of as well. The joints and gaps between all the framing members in the basement allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. (The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house.) Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into a home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement in the summer.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer. Two part expanding spray foam was installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters a home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner called us hoping that we would be able to replace his windows. He was renovating the house, and hoped to replace his old and inefficient windows. During the winter months, old, badly installed, leaky windows with poor insulation value made the home feel colder and more uncomfortable than they otherwise would with better windows. In the summer, these same windows allow more of the heat from the sun into the home, making the homeowner feel hotter than he should. Results: Cold and drafty rooms in the winter, hot rooms in the summer, higher heating and cooling bills

We had the perfect solution for this customer. This homeowner chose our Sunrise double-hung windows. The vinyl material used to construct a Sunrise Window frame is already thermally superior to any other window framing material. Then it is made even better by the injection of polyurethane insulation foam into the frame channels which delivers an industry high-bar of R-7. Our expert window installers will also inject low expansion foam between the window frame and the wall studs to further insulate the window unit, improving the thermal barrier and infiltration resistance properties of the entire window assembly. Results: Warmer and less drafty rooms in the winter, cooler rooms in the summer, lower heating and cooling bills.

This homeowner in West Granby, CT called us because she needed help with her attic. She was concerned that her attic insulation would make the lights they needed access to hard to reach. In addition, air was leaking into the attic around these fixtures. When it comes to making homes more comfortable, stopping air leakage at the top of the house is the #1 priority. Outside air leaking in at the bottom of a home only happens because warm air leaked out of the top. Can lights are holes in the ceiling. Air leaks between the fixture and the drywall, and through the fixture itself because of the many holes and seams in it. To make matters worse, when the light is on, incandescent and halogen bulbs burn at 380˚F and this hot air rises faster and causes the can light to leak faster. Most can lights are not rated to have insulation against them because of the fire hazard when these fixtures get hot. And gaps in attic insulation cause heat loss in addition to the can light air leakage problem. Results - more drafts and colder rooms downstairs. Higher overall home air leakage rate. Higher heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills.

We were able to help this customer with her issue. Our TiteShell™ can light covers were installed over her can lights. They were fitted around wires and fixture struts, and then sealed air tight with expanding foam. TiteShell™ covers are safe from the fire hazards of hot bulbs and fixtures. Once TiteShells™ are installed, TruSoft™ insulation can be blown into the attic against and over them, eliminating costly gaps in insulation and adding R-value. Results - less drafts and more comfortable rooms - including downstairs. A tighter more energy efficient house, lower heating and cooling (fuel and electric) bills, house is easier to heat and cool.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us hoping we would be able to provide an estimate for basement insulation. She needed insulation specifically in the rim joists in her basement and removal of the fiberglass insulation. When our Home Comfort Specialist arrived, he noticed that there was old and damaged fiberglass batt insulation in the basement. Fiberglass batt insulation has paper facing and organic material in the resin used to set the fibers into a batt - both are mold food.

This customer's solution was an easy one - but first, we had to remove the old insulation. Insulation has hostile fibers when it’s disturbed. The insulation is very bulky and takes up a tremendous amount of space in trucks and our dumpsters which must be emptied. But it’s necessary to have a healthy home in the end. Result - now the basement is ready to be fixed properly with other solutions.

This homeowner called us hoping to get her home insulated. They were creating a new addition to their home, but wanted the old insulation replaced as well. When we arrived at the home, we noted that the basement insulation was inefficient. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into a home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer. Two part expanding spray foam was installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. (The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house.) The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed, so this treatment will help tremendously. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Weatogue, CT called us looking for help. They had re-insulated their home the year beforehand after purchasing the home. However, when they reached out to us, they were concerned about the lasting effects on the home, as they had mold growing in the attic. Mold in an attic is not normal, not healthy, and a sign that there is another problem in the home causing the relative humidity in the attic to go above 75% so mold can grow on wood and insulation. Result - Mold all over the roof deck, odor and even rot.

In order to help this homeowner, we utilized our Mold-X2 Cleaner and Botanical treatments. Mold-X2 Cleaner effectively eliminates mold and mildew stains on contact. It is non-abrasive and non-flammable. We sprayed it on all affected areas. Once Mold-X2 Cleaner was applied, the mold disappeared instantly, leaving wood surfaces looking nearly new. Mold-X2 Botanical, a plant-based disinfectant with a pleasant, temporary scent, was sprayed after that. This prevents the mold from growing back. Now the attic is ready for our other solutions. Result - Mold eliminated, no odors or wood rot.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us stating that she had moisture in her attic. A professional recommended that she talk to us to figure out what was wrong with her attic. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he noticed that there was mold in the attic as a result of the moisture. Attic insulation in a home can get pretty nasty, especially when it is moldy. In cases like this, it is best for the health of the home for the attic insulation to be removed and replaced. 

For this homeowner, we started our process with simply removing all of the insulation in the attic. They had both batt insulation and blown-in insulation. We started with bagging the batt insulation. Then, we vacuumed up the loose fill insulation with a giant vacuum located outside with giant filter bags and a very long, fat hose. Result - Now the attic is clean! It’s ready for proper air sealing and installation of clean, new, fresh cellulose insulation or one of our other strategies to make this home comfortable and energy efficient.

This homeowner in East Hartland, CT called us interested in getting his exterior walls insulated. Like many older homes, his home had very little to no insulation in the exterior walls. This home was experiencing cold, drafty rooms, and that's no surprise, considering the circumstances. 

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner. We dense packed the exterior walls using TruSoft™ cellulose insulation. His siding was removed temporarily and 29/16” holes were drilled through the wall sheathing. A fill tube was inserted up (and down) into wall cavities to not only fill, but dense pack the wall cavities. Dense packing is a technique that packs the insulation in very tightly - so tightly that all irregular shaped cavities and crevices in the wall cavities are filled, and air will not penetrate the dense packed cellulose. Dense packed cellulose stops air flow through the wall and insulates. TruSoft™ Cellulose is treated to be highly fire, mold and pest resistant. The holes were plugged and the siding was put back. Result - A less drafty, warmer, quieter, more comfortable house, less dust/pollen, house not so dry in winter, lower fuel/electric bills, heating system runs less - meaning less maintenance.

This homeowner in Southington, CT reached out to us hoping that we would be able to help out with the mold in his attic. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he did an evaluation that found that the home did not have adequate insulation in the attic. The insulation they did have was nasty, as most older insulation is - it was covered in mold, dirt, and rodent droppings. 

We were able to help this homeowner. Before we could do anything else, though, we needed to remove all of the insulation from the attic. He had yellow fiberglass batt insulation. Therefore, in order to remove it, we simply had to pick it up, bag it, and remove it from the attic so it could be safely disposed of. We then vacuumed up all of the remaining pieces and the dust left behind using a long hose. 

Now, the attic is ready for its next solution!

This homeowner in Manchester, CT called us hoping to get his bulkhead door replaced. It was old and rusting, and looked unattractive next to his home. 

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this homeowner. We were able to install a beautiful new bulkhead door. We caulked around the edges and installed flashing behind the door to ensure a tight fit. Now, it looks amazing, and the homeowner is happy! 

This homeowner in Windsor Locks, CT called us hoping to get her bulkhead door replaced. It was old and rusting, and looked unattractive next to her home. 

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this homeowner. We were able to install a beautiful new bulkhead door. We caulked around the edges and installed flashing behind the door to ensure a tight fit. Now, it looks amazing, and the homeowner is happy! 

This homeowner in Suffield, CT called us saying that he needs someone to come out and insulate his crawl space. The crawl space was very tight and he was not able to look and see what the insulation was like. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he was able to get into the crawl space. Inside, there was a very very small amount of fiberglass insulation. He also noticed that there was a large amount of the support beams under the crawl space were damaged by humidity. Humidity can damage insulation a lot - it pulls insulation away from the sub floor it's supposed to be insulating. The same cold air under the insulation flows into the space on top of it - rendering the insulation useless. As the insulation gets heavier with moisture content, it falls away from the sub floor even more and can even fall to the floor. Fiberglass batt insulation has paper facing and organic material in the resin used to set the fibers into a batt - both are mold food. Results - mold, smelly insulation that is not providing any insulation value and has sagged or even fallen.

We helped this homeowner by removing the existing fiberglass batts from the crawl space. The insulation is very bulky and takes up a tremendous amount of space in trucks and our dumpsters which must be emptied. But it’s necessary to have a healthy home in the end. Result - now the crawl space is ready to be fixed properly with other solutions. No more nasty fiberglass insulation!

This homeowner in West Hartland, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her insulation. We came out to the home and assessed that they needed more attic insulation. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. Attics are dramatically under-insulated compared to today’s standards. Result - cold drafty rooms downstairs, colder floors, house is harder to heat and keep comfortable, higher fuel and electric bills.

Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because it is just burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. That’s why, for this customer, we first carefully air sealed the many various points where air from the home leaks up into the attic and is lost. We used expanding foam to air seal all cracks and gaps. Baffles (air chutes) were installed in each rafter bay to keep soffit vents clear and prepare for insulation. Finally, our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation was blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided. Results - a warmer, more comfortable, less drafty house that the homeowner will notice everywhere - even downstairs! House is quieter. Fuel and electric bills are lower.

This homeowner in West Hartland, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with his attic. A company had come in and charged him a large amount of money to remediate a small amount of the mold in his attic, but the rest of the mold had not been taken care of, nor had the problem been fixed. Mold in an attic is not normal, not healthy, and a sign that there is another problem in the home causing the relative humidity in the attic to go above 75% so mold can grow on wood and insulation. 

Luckily, we had the perfect solution for this homeowner. In this solution, we utilize our Mold-X2 Cleaner and Botanical treatments. Mold-X2 Cleaner effectively eliminates mold and mildew stains on contact. It is non-abrasive and non-flammable, and is sprayed on effected areas. There is a temporary odor from the product, so we recommend that homeowners leave the house for a few hours, depending on how well the space can be ventilated. Once Mold-X2 Cleaner is applied, mold disappears instantly, leaving wood surfaces looking nearly new. Mold-X2 Botanical, a plant-based disinfectant with a pleasant, temporary scent, is sprayed or fogged on surfaces, which prevents mold from growing back. Now the attic is ready for other solutions. Result - Mold eliminated, no odors or wood rot.

This homeowner in West Hartland, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with the mold in his attic. When we got there, we noticed that the insulation was extremely damaged due to the mold, and needed to be replaced. Attic insulation in a home can get pretty nasty. Over many years it sits there collecting dirt, dust, pollen, bugs, rodent feces (from mice, squirrels, bats, etc.), bird droppings and nests and all kinds of undesirable things. The mold is the worst part of it!  

In this solution, we remove the damaged, soiled insulation in the attic. Batt insulation is bagged and then the attic is vacuumed to remove pieces, parts and dust. Result - Now the attic is clean! It’s ready for proper air sealing and installation of clean, new, fresh cellulose insulation or one of our other strategies to make the home comfortable and energy efficient.

This homeowner called us hoping that we would be able to help with their attic insulation. They were having issues with snow melting on their roof abnormally. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he noticed that there was insufficient insulation. 

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer. However, before we were able to start the solution, we had to remove the damaged, soiled insulation in the attic. The batt insulation was bagged and then the attic was vacuumed to remove pieces, parts and dust. Result - Now the attic is clean! It’s ready for proper air sealing and installation of clean, new, fresh cellulose insulation to make the home comfortable and energy efficient.

This homeowner in Bloomfield, CT reached out to us hoping that we would be able to help her, as her insulation was falling down in her attic. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home and was going over her concerns, they identified the lack of insulation in the rim joist in the basement as an issue that was causing home comfort problems. The “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Windsor, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with his attic. He had some insulation problems that made his home extremely susceptible to temperature changes. Vented attics are the worst possible place to locate ducts. Attics are the extreme opposite temperature of the air the ducts are trying to distribute to the rooms in a home. They are 30˚F in winter when the air in the duct is 120˚F, and 125˚F in summer, when the air inside the duct is 55˚F. Ducts are very poorly insulated with fiberglass insulation - and air passes right through fiberglass. In winter the attic cools the duct and air in it. So instead of having 120˚F air that the homeowner paid to heat coming out of their registers into their rooms, it may be only 90˚F - making them uncomfortable, and the furnace run longer to heat the home - which cost the homeowner money. In the summer, the 120˚F + attic heats the ducts and air in them, and instead of 55˚F air that the homeowner paid to cool coming into their rooms, it may be 70˚ - reheated by their ducts in their hot attic. The AC has to run longer to make the homeowner comfortable. Ducts have lots of joints, gaps and holes. These are not only air leaks into the vented attic when the air handler is OFF, but they are POWERED air leaks when it’s on. Result - Uncomfortable rooms, some rooms (farther from the air handler) won’t heat/cool, higher fuel and electric bills, more dust, more noise.

We sealed and insulated the ducts right over the existing insulation with 1” of closed cell foam insulation. Air cannot leak through the foam. Not only does Tite ‘n’ True Foam Duct Encapsulation have a superior R-value per inch, but it recovers some insulation value from the existing duct wrap by making it air tight. Now, when the furnace or air conditioner heats or cools the air, that heating/cooling is delivered to their rooms without loss along the way! Results - More comfortable rooms, warmer in winter and cooler in summer, less dust/noise, lower fuel/electric bills, longer furnace/AC equipment life.

This homeowner in Simsbury, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help with their attic insulation. They were having issues with ice damming. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he noticed that there was insufficient insulation in the attic, and a lack of air sealing, which was causing the issues in the home. 

Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer. However, before we were able to start the solution, we had to remove the damaged, soiled insulation in the attic. The batt insulation was bagged and then the attic was vacuumed to remove pieces, parts and dust. Result - Now the attic is clean! It’s ready for proper air sealing and installation of clean, new, fresh cellulose insulation to make the home comfortable and energy efficient.

This homeowner in Rocky Hill, CT called us hoping we could help with her attic. She was having problems with moisture that was affecting the rest of her home. This moisture was particularly problematic because it was causing a mold problem in the attic.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we utilize our Mold-X2 Cleaner and Botanical solutions. Mold-X2 Cleaner effectively eliminates mold and mildew stains on contact. It is non-abrasive and non-flammable, and is sprayed on effected areas. Once Mold-X2 Cleaner is applied, mold disappears instantly, leaving wood surfaces looking nearly new. Mold-X2 Botanical, a plant-based disinfectant with a pleasant, temporary scent, is sprayed or fogged on surfaces, which prevents mold from growing back. Now the attic is ready for other solutions. Result - Mold eliminated, no odors or wood rot.

This homeowner in Suffield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help them. They had an old home with a very humid crawl space, and they wanted to get it fixed, as it was starting to affect the stability of the floor above. High humidity in a crawl space is caused by a number of important conditions. High humidity causes many problems in a home such as mold (which grows at Relative Humidities [RH] above 75%), rot (which happens above 90% RH) odors, airborne mold spores that aggravate allergies and asthma, increased pests and insects such as termites, and higher air conditioning and heating costs. Result - cold floors above, condensation, mold, rot, odors, drafty, uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. The SaniDry™ Sedona air system is a powerful but energy efficient dehumidification and air filtration system in one unit. Able to remove an incredible 100 pints of water per day and using only 5.9 amps of electricity, the SaniDry™ Sedona drains automatically to a sump or the outside with a condensate pump. It has a powerful 310 cfm blower to circulate the dry air completely around to dry building materials and contents. Mold doesn’t have a chance! An automatic control is easy - set it to 55% RH and forget it - the SaniDry™ Sedona does the rest! And there’s no buckets to empty! Results - Low Relative Humidity, mold stops growing, odors are reduced, crawl space is suitable for storage, lower air conditioning cost, upstairs is dryer.

This homeowner in Manchester, CT called us looking to get the insulation in her attic fixed. The attic insulation was old fiberglass batts that were dirty and needed replacement. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. Attics are dramatically under insulated compared to today’s standards. Result - cold drafty rooms downstairs, colder floors, house is harder to heat and keep comfortable, higher fuel and electric bills.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because it is just burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. That’s why, in this solution, we first carefully air seal the many various points where air from the home leaks up into the attic and is lost. Our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided. Results - a warmer, more comfortable, less drafty house that the homeowner notice everywhere - even downstairs! House is quieter. Fuel and electric bills are lower.

This homeowner in East Hartford, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her basement. She wanted insulation installed, as the basement did not have any. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Bloomfield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her basement. It was poorly insulated, and they had a moisture and humidity problem. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Windsor, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her basement. She needed help preventing mold, as she had had a mold issue in her basement. High humidity in a basement is caused by a number of important conditions. High humidity causes many problems in a home such as mold (which grows at Relative Humidities [RH] above 75%), rot (which happens above 90% RH) odors, airborne mold spores that aggravate allergies and asthma, increased pests and insects such as termites, and higher air conditioning and heating costs. Result - cold floors above, condensation, mold, rot, odors, drafty, uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. The SaniDry™ Sedona air system is a powerful but energy efficient dehumidification and air filtration system in one unit. Able to remove an incredible 100 pints of water per day and using only 5.9 amps of electricity, the SaniDry™ Sedona drains automatically to a sump or the outside with a condensate pump. It has a powerful 310 cfm blower to circulate the dry air completely around to dry building materials and contents. Mold doesn’t have a chance! An automatic control is easy - set it to 55% RH and forget it - the SaniDry™ Sedona does the rest! And there’s no buckets to empty! Results - Low Relative Humidity, mold stops growing, odors are reduced, basement is suitable for storage, lower air conditioning cost, upstairs is dryer.

This homeowner in East Hartford, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her. She and her family were looking to get their basement finished, but first, it needed to be insulated, as it was uncomfortable. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Wethersfield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her. She was having a hard time with her crawl space. The insulation was sagging and falling, and it just needed to be replaced. In a crawl space, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Crawl space ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the crawl space in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold crawl space surfaces.

This homeowner in East Hartford, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her. She was having a lot of issues with mold, humidity, and musty odors. When our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home, he noted that the basement did not have proper insulation, and neither did the adjoining crawl space. Poured concrete basement walls are buried in the cool earth and are perpetually cold - about 17˚F cooler than we like the interior of our homes to be. In the winter the part of the foundation that sticks up above the ground is much colder than that. Heat moves from more to less. The dense concrete has a lot of mass and heat from our basement constantly flows into and through the wall by conduction. In the summer, warm humid air from outside hits the cold basement walls and condensation forms, supporting mold. Results - cold basement, cold floors above the basement, higher fuel bills, more difficult to heat the house.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, our Foamax polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) foam insulation board is installed on the basement walls with our proprietary Foam-Tite fasteners. But not just any foam - Foamax polyiso foam has the flame retardant properties to satisfy building codes to leave it exposed in a basement - unlike expanded or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS, XPS). In addition, the Foamax polyiso board has a foil facing to reflect heat so the insulation isn’t doing all the work by itself. Results - warmer, more comfortable basement, warmer floors above basement, less condensation in the summertime, lower fuel bills, house is easier to heat.

This homeowner in Glastonbury, CT called us hoping to create a conditioned space in the crawl space adjoining to her basement so that she could utilize it for storage. In a crawl space, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Crawl space ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold crawl space/basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the crawl space in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold surfaces.

This homeowner in Wethersfield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her basement. She wanted to get her basement finished, but they first needed to get it insulated. Poured concrete basement walls are buried in the cool earth and are perpetually cold - about 17˚F cooler than we like the interior of our homes to be. In the winter the part of the foundation that sticks up above the ground is much colder than that. Heat moves from more to less. The dense concrete has a lot of mass and heat from our basement constantly flows into and through the wall by conduction. In the summer, warm humid air from outside hits the cold basement walls and condensation forms, supporting mold. Results - cold basement, cold floors above the basement, higher fuel bills, more difficult to heat the house.

We had the perfect solution for this custome. In this solution, our Foamax polyisocyanurate (Polyiso) foam insulation board is installed on the basement walls with our proprietary Foam-Tite fasteners. But not just any foam - Foamax polyiso foam has the flame retardant properties to satisfy building codes to leave it exposed in a basement - unlike expanded or extruded polystyrene foam (EPS, XPS). In addition, the Foamax polyiso board has a foil facing to reflect heat so the insulation isn’t doing all the work by itself. Results - warmer, more comfortable basement, warmer floors above basement, less condensation in the summertime, lower fuel bills, house is easier to heat.

This homeowner in Windsor Locks, CT called us looking for help with her attic. She had very high energy bills and was looking for help lowering them.

Before we were able to help this customer make her home more comfortable, we had to first remove the old insulation. The batt insulation was bagged and then the attic was vacuumed to remove pieces, parts and dust. Result - Now the attic is clean! We could then begin our other treatments and solutions to help this homeowner stay comfortable in her home for years to come! 

This homeowner in New Britain, CT called us saying that she was having an issue with water and high humidity in her basement. High humidity in a basement is caused by a number of important conditions. High humidity causes many problems in a home such as mold (which grows at Relative Humidities [RH] above 75%), rot (which happens above 90% RH) odors, airborne mold spores that aggravate allergies and asthma, increased pests and insects such as termites, and higher air conditioning and heating costs. Result - cold floors above, condensation, mold, rot, odors, drafty, uncomfortable home, higher fuel and electric bills.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. The SaniDry™ Sedona air system is a powerful but energy efficient dehumidification and air filtration system in one unit. Able to remove an incredible 100 pints of water per day and using only 5.9 amps of electricity, the SaniDry™ Sedona drains automatically to a sump or the outside with a condensate pump. It has a powerful 310 cfm blower to circulate the dry air completely around to dry building materials and contents. Mold doesn’t have a chance! An automatic control is easy - set it to 55% RH and forget it - the SaniDry™ Sedona does the rest! And there’s no buckets to empty! Results - Low Relative Humidity, mold stops growing, odors are reduced, basement is suitable for storage, lower air conditioning cost, upstairs is dryer.

This homeowner in Granby, CT called us saying there were musty smells in their basement. When our Home Comfort Specialists came out to the home, they noted that the basement had inadequate insulation. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Windsor, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with his bulkhead door. He had an old bulkhead door installed that was on a concrete footing -- the initial egress was made in the early 1800s, and had been renovated several times since then. Therefore, he needed something that would fit perfectly with it.

Fogarty's Home Services was able to help this customer. We were able to install a beautiful new bulkhead door. We caulked around the edges and installed flashing behind the door to ensure a tight fit. Now, it looks amazing, and the homeowner is happy! 

This homeowner in Windsor, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with his basement. His old insulation had mice in it that had damaged the insulation and wiring. That insulation was removed, and it needed to be replaced. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in New Britain, CT reached out to us saying that she has issues with water in her basement. She had two sump pumps that were not adequately doing the job. A sump pump is a critically important part of a home because it keeps an entire level of the home protected against flooding - which could cause many thousands of dollars in property damage, clean up time and aggravation. Results -- A flooded basement, mess, property damage, and mold -- just what this homeowner was trying to avoid! 

Luckily, Fogarty's Home Services had the perfect solution for this customer -- the TripleSafe™ sump pump system. The TripleSafe™ system has 3 pumps to protect from flooding. The first pump is a 1/3 hp, cast iron Zoeller pump that can pump up to 2200 gallons per hour, 8 feet high. Should the first pump fail or not be able to keep up with the temporary heavy flow of water, a 1/2 hp AC back-up pump on a separate discharge line can pump 3900 gallons of water per hour. If the power fails, then a third, battery operated "UltraSump" pump automatically pumps up to 12,000 gallons of water out of the basement! An airtight lid keeps moisture, odors and radon gas out of the basement. The TripleSafe™ system is the highest quality sump pump protection in the world! Results -- the homeowner has peace of mind knowing she has both AC and DC powered back up pumps to keep her basement dry. 

This homeowner in Canton, CT called us hoping we would be able to help her with her crawl space. She knew that there was insulation in there that was falling down due to the humidity in the crawl space. In a crawl space, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Crawl space ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold crawl space/basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the crawl space in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold surfaces.

This homeowner in Marlborough, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her attic. She was having an issue with mice, and wanted someone to come and look at her attic insulation to see if her attic was a reason they were in her home. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. 

We had the perfect solution for this customer. Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because it is just burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. That’s why, in this solution, we first carefully air seal the many various points where air from the home leaks up into the attic and is lost. Our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided.

This homeowner in Windsor, CT called us hoping we would be able to help him with his attic insulation. He was hoping to get his insulation removed and replaced due to a mold problem. The mold was in his bathroom as well as his attic, and the people remediating the bathroom stated that he would need his attic looked at as they could not help him with it. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. 

We had the perfect solution for this customer. Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because it is just burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. That’s why, in this solution, we first carefully air seal the many various points where air from the home leaks up into the attic and is lost. Our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided.

This homeowner in Hartford, CT reached out to us hoping to get his basement looked at. He bought a home that had no insulation in it, and he wanted to get it insulated before the winter. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in New Britain, CT approached us at a home show hoping we would be able to help him with his attic. He had a small amount of blown in insulation, but wanted an attic evaluation since it was not as high as it should be. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. 

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner. Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because it is just burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. That’s why, in this solution, we first carefully air seal the many various points where air from the home leaks up into the attic and is lost. Our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided.

This homeowner in East Hartford, CT reached out to us hoping to get his basement looked at. He was hoping to get the basement insulated as his home was very cold in the winter. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Wethersfield, CT approached us at a home show hoping we would be able to help her with her new home. She had purchased it recently and was looking to complete projects that the home had still pending from the previous owner. One of those projects was the basement, which needed a lot of work, including insulation, waterproofing, and basement finishing. However, she wanted to first insulate the basement. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in East Granby, CT called us hoping we would be able to help him with his attic insulation. He had a finished attic with kneewalls. These kneewalls had fiberglass insulation in them, and the finished attic was extremely susceptible to temperature -- the homeowner complained that in the summer, the finished attic space was easily 15 degrees hotter than the floors below, and his wife stated that the rooms were too hot to sit in. In colder months, it is very cold. 

Before we were able to help this customer make their home more comfortable, we had to first remove the old insulation. The batt insulation was bagged and then the attic was vacuumed to remove pieces, parts and dust. Result - Now the attic is clean! We could then begin our other treatments and solutions to help this homeowner stay comfortable in his home for years to come! 

This homeowner in Old Lyme, CT reached out to us because she said that she was using an excessive amount of fuel to heat her home and was hoping that we would be able to help her with her insulation. Our Home Comfort Specialist came out to the home and identified that the home did not have adequate attic insulation. Since attics are vented, we should think of them thermally as outside in the winter. In summer because of the suns radiant heat, they are much worse than outside, reaching 130˚ on summer days. Clearly, we need to keep an absolute boundary between our living space and the attic so inside air doesn’t move to the attic in the heating season (convection), and heat doesn’t pass up through our ceilings in winter (conduction), and down from our ceilings in the hot summer (conduction, radiation). To reduce overall air leakage, the attic is the first priority because warm air rises to the top of the house and finds any and all holes to leak out into the cold vented attic and is lost. Holes, gaps and joints include between drywall and framing at the top of walls, around pipes, wires, electric boxes, fixtures, duct, penetrations, ceiling grilles and joints in framing. And the only reason cold air leaks in from the outside at the lower levels of the house, is that warm air leaked out of the top and created a suction at the bottom. 

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner. Adding insulation in an attic without sealing all air leaks first should never be done, because it is just burying air leaks and making them impossible to seal later - and insulation DOES NOT STOP air leaks. That’s why, in this solution, we first carefully air seal the many various points where air from the home leaks up into the attic and is lost. Our premium TruSoft™ cellulose insulation is blown to the optimum R-value (typically R60). TruSoft™ will not burn, get moldy, or attract pests. Blown insulation fills all gaps and odd shaped voids, and by filling over framing members, “thermal bridging” is avoided.

This homeowner in Marlborough, CT called us hoping we could help her with her basement insulation. Their home was extremely cold, especially their floors in the winter time. In a basement, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Basement ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold basement/lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the basement in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold basement surfaces.

This homeowner in Old Lyme, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with her home. She was looking to get mold removed from her crawl space, which was causing an odor in her home. High relative humidity in a crawl space will cause mold to grow on the surfaces of framing lumber, floors, insulation, and everywhere. Spores are the airborne seeds of mold, which are produced when the mold is growing and active. These spores float on airstreams up from the crawl space into the main living space, and people with sensitivities can react to them.

We had the perfect solution for this homeowner . We utilized our Mold-X2 Cleaner and Botanical solution for this issue. Mold-X2 Cleaner effectively eliminates mold and mildew stains on contact. It is non-abrasive and non-flammable, and is sprayed on effected areas. There is a temporary odor from the product, so we recommend that homeowners leave the house for a few hours, depending on how well the space can be ventilated. Once Mold-X2 Cleaner is applied, mold disappears instantly, leaving wood surface looking nearly new. Mold-X2 Botanical, a plant-based disinfectant with a pleasant, temporary scent, is sprayed or fogged on surfaces, which prevents mold from growing back. Now the crawl space is ready for other solutions. Results – The mold is eliminated, with no odors or potential for wood rot. The crawl space is now ready for a permanent repair to keep humidity low.

This homeowner in Enfield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help him with an entrance to his crawl space. He had a "makeshift" cover to the entrance. Since the old thinking was that crawl spaces could have dirt floors and be vented, it was okay for access doors to be loose fitting and unsealed. Today we know that to have a comfortable, energy efficient home, free of mold, rot, bugs, and odors we must seal off all air (and water) leaks from the outside. But an old crawl space access door doesn’t do that. And wells fill up with leaves, water, and weeds grow in them, a constant maintenance issue. Open wells can also be a fall hazard. Results - Warm, humid air leaks in during summer, causing condensation all over the crawl space, cold air leaks in during winter causing cold floors above and cooling heating ducts, higher fuel and electric bills.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. The Turtl™ Crawl Space access system is an airtight door and a sealed access well in one durable unit. This highly specialized product is the only one of it’s kind manufactured anywhere and is perfect for it’s purpose. The homeowner can open the lid and crawl into their crawl space without getting wet or dirty. The Turtl™ even has a place for a lock on it, and will never rust, rot or need paint! It’s airtight and watertight and people can jump on it without a problem! Result - An airtight, watertight, durable crawl space access that keeps the home clean and healthy. Lower fuel and electric bills.

This homeowner in Bloomfield, CT called us hoping that we would be able to help her with her attic. They had gotten an energy audit done that had identified a lot of issues with their attic, but they were initially looking to focus on soffit vents as they had a poorly vented attic. That lack of ventilation was causing a mold issue in their attic.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we utilize our Mold-X2 Cleaner and Botanical solutions. Mold-X2 Cleaner effectively eliminates mold and mildew stains on contact. It is non-abrasive and non-flammable, and is sprayed on effected areas. Once Mold-X2 Cleaner is applied, mold disappears instantly, leaving wood surfaces looking nearly new. Mold-X2 Botanical, a plant-based disinfectant with a pleasant, temporary scent, is sprayed or fogged on surfaces, which prevents mold from growing back. Now the attic is ready for other solutions. Result - Mold eliminated, no odors or wood rot.

This homeowner in Windsor Locks, CT reached out to us online hoping that we would be able to help her with her crawl space. They had a moldy, musty smell and they needed it fixed as soon as possible. In a crawl space, the “rim joist” is the perimeter of the floor framing system along the exterior of the house. The joints and gaps between all the framing members allow for a lot of air leakage into the house. The rim joist is seldom insulated and never air sealed. Crawl space ceiling insulation, especially fiberglass batts, doesn’t stop the flow of cold air into the home. Results - cold floors, drafty, uncomfortable rooms, cold lower level, higher heating and cooling bills and more condensation in the basement or crawl space in the summer.

We had the perfect solution for this customer. In this solution, we spray foam the rim joist in the crawl space in order to seal and insulate it. Two part expanding spray foam is installed on the rim joist and over the sill plate to seal all air leaks from the outside and insulate this important area of the home. Our spray foam has a high insulation value per inch of R7, and because it expands, it seals all cracks and gaps and joints where air from the outside enters the home. Results - warmer floors, less drafts, more comfortable rooms, the house is easier to heat and costs less to heat, less summertime condensation on cold crawl space surfaces.